# Sovereignty Module: Forge the Sword

## Complete Sword Making: From Bar to Blade

The sword is the pinnacle of the bladesmith's art, combining metallurgy, geometry, and craftsmanship. This campaign covers sword types, forging, heat treatment, guard and pommel making, and handle construction.

### Chapter 1: Sword Types

| Type | Length | Width | Weight | Historical Use |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Short sword (gladius) | 18-24 inches | 2-2.5 inches | 1.5-2.5 lbs | Roman infantry |
| Arming sword (one-hand) | 28-32 inches | 1.5-2 inches | 2-3 lbs | Medieval steward |
| Longsword (hand-and-a-half) | 35-40 inches | 1.5-2 inches | 2.5-3.5 lbs | Late medieval |
| Greatsword (two-hand) | 48-60 inches | 2-2.5 inches | 5-8 lbs | Renaissance |
| Saber (curved) | 30-36 inches | 1-1.5 inches | 2-3 lbs | Cavalry |
| Seax (Viking) | 12-30 inches | 1.5-2.5 inches | 1-3 lbs | Norse, Anglo-Saxon |

### Chapter 2: Steel Selection

| Steel | Carbon % | Properties | Best For | Heat Treat |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1075 | 0.75% | Tough, forgiving | Beginner swords | Water or oil quench |
| 1080 | 0.80% | Good edge, tough | General swords | Oil quench |
| 1084 | 0.84% | Excellent balance | All swords | Oil quench |
| 1095 | 0.95% | Hard edge, less tough | Cutting swords | Oil quench (careful) |
| 5160 | 0.60% + Cr | Very tough, spring steel | Tough swords, sabers | Oil quench |
| L6 | 0.70% + Ni | Exceptional toughness | Premium swords | Oil quench |

### Chapter 3: Forging Process

Forging steps: 1) Start with bar stock (1 x 1/4 inch for arming sword, 36 inches long). 2) Draw out blade: taper from tang to tip. 3) Establish distal taper: blade thins from guard to tip. 4) Forge profile taper: blade narrows from guard to tip. 5) Forge tang: reduce to 3/8 x 3/8 inch, 5-6 inches long. 6) Normalize: heat to non-magnetic, air cool (3 times). 7) Straighten: check blade alignment, correct any curves. 8) Grind bevels: establish edge geometry (flat, hollow, or convex). 9) Leave edge thick (1/32 inch) before heat treatment.

| Dimension | Short Sword | Arming Sword | Longsword |
|---|---|---|---|
| Blade length | 18-24 inches | 28-32 inches | 35-40 inches |
| Blade width (guard) | 2 inches | 1.75 inches | 1.75 inches |
| Blade width (tip) | 1 inch | 0.75 inch | 0.75 inch |
| Blade thickness (guard) | 1/4 inch | 3/16 inch | 3/16 inch |
| Blade thickness (tip) | 1/8 inch | 1/8 inch | 1/8 inch |
| Tang length | 4-5 inches | 5-6 inches | 8-10 inches |
| Tang width | 3/8 inch | 3/8 inch | 3/8 inch |

### Chapter 4: Heat Treatment

Heat treatment process: 1) Clay coating (differential hardening, optional): apply thin clay to edge, thick clay to spine. 2) Heat blade evenly to non-magnetic (cherry red). 3) Check with magnet (steel is non-magnetic at critical temperature). 4) Quench in oil (warm oil, 120-140°F). 5) Edge-first, straight down, no hesitation. 6) Move blade in oil (figure-8 motion). 7) Check for straightness immediately after quench. 8) If bent, clamp straight while still warm. 9) Temper: heat in oven to 400-450°F for 2 hours (twice). 10) Test: blade should flex and return to straight.

| Step | Temperature | Medium | Duration | Purpose |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Normalize (x3) | Non-magnetic (~1475°F) | Air cool | Until cool | Refine grain |
| Harden | Non-magnetic (~1475°F) | Oil quench | Until cool | Harden steel |
| Temper (x2) | 400-450°F | Oven | 2 hours each | Reduce brittleness |
| Straighten | After quench | Clamp/press | As needed | Correct warps |

### Chapter 5: Guard, Pommel, and Handle

| Component | Material | Purpose | Attachment |
|---|---|---|---|
| Guard (cross-guard) | Mild steel or brass | Protect hand, balance | Slot fits over tang, peened or welded |
| Grip (handle) | Wood, leather, cord | Comfortable hold | Shaped to tang, glued |
| Pommel | Steel or brass | Balance, tang retention | Threaded or peened onto tang end |
| Leather wrap | Leather strip | Grip texture | Spiral wrapped, glued |
| Wire wrap (optional) | Copper or steel wire | Grip texture, decoration | Spiral wrapped over leather |

Assembly: 1) Fit guard: file slot in guard to match tang cross-section. 2) Slide guard onto tang (tight fit). 3) Shape grip: two halves of wood, carved to fit tang. 4) Glue grip halves to tang with epoxy. 5) Shape grip to comfortable oval cross-section. 6) Wrap grip with leather strip (spiral, glued). 7) Fit pommel: thread tang end or prepare for peening. 8) Install pommel, peen tang end to lock assembly. 9) All components compress together tightly.

### Reference Card

1. Distal taper is the secret of a good sword (a blade that thins from guard to tip handles well and cuts effectively; without distal taper, a sword feels heavy and sluggish). 2. Normalize three times before hardening (normalizing refines the grain structure of the steel; three cycles produce the finest grain and the best combination of hardness and toughness). 3. Oil quench for swords (water quenching is too aggressive for long blades and causes warping or cracking; oil provides a slower, more even quench that reduces stress). 4. Temper twice (two tempering cycles at 400-450°F ensure complete transformation of retained austenite; a single temper may leave brittle spots). 5. The tang is the backbone (the tang extends through the handle and is secured by the pommel; a weak or short tang is the most common failure point in a sword). 6. Balance point determines handling (the balance point of a well-made sword is 2-4 inches in front of the guard; adjusting pommel weight shifts the balance). 7. A sword must flex and return (a properly heat-treated sword blade bends under stress and springs back to straight; a blade that takes a permanent bend or snaps has been incorrectly heat-treated). 8. Sword making is the ultimate test of the bladesmith (a sword combines every skill in metallurgy, forging, grinding, heat treatment, and fitting; completing a functional sword is a milestone achievement).