# Sovereignty Module: Grip the Iron

## Complete Blacksmithing: Tongs and Tooling: From Bar to Grip

A blacksmith is only as good as their tooling. This campaign covers tong making, hardy tools, swage blocks, punches, and jig construction.

### Chapter 1: Tong Types

| Tong Type | Jaw Shape | Best For | Stock Size | Difficulty |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Flat jaw (bolt tongs) | Flat, parallel | Flat bar, plate | 3/8-1 inch flat | Moderate |
| V-bit (wolf jaw) | V-shaped notch | Round and square stock | 1/4-3/4 inch round/square | Moderate |
| Box jaw | Rectangular opening | Square stock | Specific size | Moderate-high |
| Scrolling tongs | Flat, wide jaw | Holding scrolls, curves | Flat bar | Moderate |
| Pick-up tongs | Narrow, pointed | Small pieces | Any small stock | Low-moderate |
| Rivet tongs | Cupped jaw | Holding rivet heads | Rivet size | Moderate |

### Chapter 2: Tong Forging

Flat jaw tong forging: 1) Start with 3/4-inch round or square stock, 18-20 inches long. 2) Heat one end to bright orange. 3) Flatten the first 2 inches (this becomes the jaw). 4) Offset: at 2-inch mark, create a 90-degree step (the boss). 5) The boss is the pivot point where the rivet goes. 6) Draw out the reins (handles) from behind the boss. 7) Reins should be 12-16 inches long, tapered. 8) Punch or drill rivet hole through boss. 9) Forge second tong half (mirror image of first). 10) Assemble with rivet through both bosses. 11) Adjust jaw alignment (jaws must meet evenly). 12) Heat and adjust until jaws grip stock firmly.

| Forging Step | Temperature | Tool | Critical Point |
|---|---|---|---|
| Flatten jaw | Bright orange | Hammer, anvil face | Even thickness |
| Create boss (offset) | Bright orange | Hammer, anvil edge | Clean 90-degree step |
| Draw reins | Orange-yellow | Hammer, anvil | Even taper, straight |
| Punch rivet hole | Cherry red | Punch, bolster plate | Centered in boss |
| Assemble and adjust | Cherry red | Rivet, hammer | Jaws align perfectly |

### Chapter 3: Hardy Tools

| Tool | Function | Fits In | Difficulty |
|---|---|---|---|
| Hot cut hardy | Cut hot metal | Hardy hole (anvil) | Low |
| Cold cut hardy | Cut cold metal | Hardy hole | Low |
| Fuller (bottom) | Create grooves, spread metal | Hardy hole | Low |
| Swage (bottom) | Shape round stock | Hardy hole | Moderate |
| Bick iron | Small horn for tight curves | Hardy hole | Moderate |
| Monkey tool | Flatten around round stock | Hardy hole | Moderate |

Hardy tool construction: 1) Start with 1-inch square stock (or match your hardy hole). 2) Forge shank to fit hardy hole snugly. 3) Forge working end to desired shape. 4) For hot cut: forge thin edge (like chisel), do not harden. 5) For cold cut: forge edge, harden and temper. 6) For fuller: forge rounded groove shape. 7) For swage: forge half-round channel (match stock size). 8) Hardy tools drop into the anvil's square hole. 9) Work is placed on top and struck with hammer.

### Chapter 4: Punches and Drifts

| Tool | Purpose | Shape | Material |
|---|---|---|---|
| Center punch | Mark drill points | Pointed | Tool steel (hardened) |
| Slot punch | Create rectangular holes | Rectangular | Tool steel |
| Round punch | Create round holes | Round | Tool steel |
| Drift | Enlarge and shape holes | Tapered (round, square, oval) | Tool steel |
| Bolster plate | Support work during punching | Flat plate with holes | Mild steel |

Punch making: 1) Start with tool steel rod (W1, O1, or S7). 2) Forge working end to desired shape. 3) Leave striking end slightly crowned (prevents mushrooming). 4) Harden working end: heat to cherry red, quench in oil. 5) Temper: heat to straw/bronze color (375-425°F). 6) Do not harden striking end (it will chip and send shrapnel). 7) Dress striking end regularly (grind off any mushrooming).

### Chapter 5: Jigs and Fixtures

| Jig | Purpose | Construction | Difficulty |
|---|---|---|---|
| Bending fork | Bend scrolls and curves | Two prongs welded to hardy shank | Low |
| Twisting wrench | Twist bar stock | Slotted bar with handle | Low |
| Spring swage | Shape round stock (top and bottom) | Two matched halves with spring | Moderate |
| Scroll starter | Begin scroll curves | Tapered slot in plate | Low |
| Rivet header | Form rivet heads | Plate with countersunk hole | Low |

### Reference Card

1. Make tongs first (tongs are the first tool a blacksmith makes; without tongs, you cannot safely hold hot metal for any other forging operation). 2. The boss is the critical feature (the offset step between jaw and rein creates the pivot point; a clean, well-formed boss makes tongs that work smoothly). 3. Jaws must align perfectly (tongs that do not grip evenly are dangerous; heat and adjust until the jaws meet flat across their entire surface). 4. Hardy tools multiply the anvil (every hardy tool adds a new capability to the anvil; a basic set of hot cut, fuller, and swage transforms what you can make). 5. Punches must be hard, strikers must be soft (harden and temper the working end of punches; leave the striking end soft so it does not chip and send shrapnel). 6. A bolster plate supports punching (a thick plate with holes underneath the work supports the metal and gives the punch somewhere to go). 7. Tool steel for cutting tools (W1, O1, or S7 tool steel holds an edge; mild steel is fine for tongs and hardy tools that do not need to cut). 8. Every smith makes their own tools (the mark of a blacksmith is the ability to make the tools needed for the next project; tooling is never finished).