# Sovereignty Module: Hang the Door

## Complete Hinge and Door Hardware Forging: From Bar to Swing

Door hardware is essential for every building. This campaign covers hinge forging, latch making, lock mechanisms, and installation.

### Chapter 1: Hinge Types

| Type | Complexity | Strength | Use | Decorative Potential |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Strap hinge | Low | High | Gates, barn doors, heavy doors | High |
| Butt hinge | Moderate | Moderate | Interior doors, cabinets | Low |
| Pintle hinge (pin and eye) | Low | Very high | Heavy gates, shutters | Moderate |
| T-hinge | Low-moderate | High | Shed doors, chests | Moderate |
| Butterfly hinge | Moderate | Moderate | Cabinets, light doors | Very high |
| Piano hinge (continuous) | High | Very high | Lids, long edges | Low |

### Chapter 2: Strap Hinge Forging

Strap hinge forging: 1) Start with flat bar (1/4 x 1.5 inch, 12-18 inches long for each leaf). 2) Heat one end of first leaf to bright orange. 3) Forge eye (barrel): wrap heated end around mandrel (3/8 inch rod). 4) Weld eye closed (forge weld the overlap). 5) Flatten and shape leaf (taper, decorative end). 6) Punch mounting holes (3-4 holes per leaf). 7) Repeat for second leaf (eye wraps opposite direction). 8) Make pin: straight rod that fits through both eyes. 9) Peen one end of pin to prevent removal. 10) Assemble: thread pin through both eyes.

| Component | Stock | Finished Size | Forging Steps |
|---|---|---|---|
| Leaf (door side) | 1/4 x 1.5 inch flat bar | 12-18 inches long | Eye, flatten, taper, punch holes |
| Leaf (frame side) | 1/4 x 1.5 inch flat bar | 4-6 inches long | Eye, flatten, punch holes |
| Pin | 3/8 inch round rod | Length of combined eyes + 1/2 inch | Cut, peen one end |

### Chapter 3: Latch Forging

| Latch Type | Complexity | Security | Use |
|---|---|---|---|
| Thumb latch (Norfolk) | Moderate | Low (privacy only) | Interior and exterior doors |
| Slide bolt | Low | Moderate | Gates, interior doors |
| Hook and eye | Very low | Very low | Gates, shutters |
| Ring latch | Low-moderate | Low | Historical doors |
| Hasp and staple | Low | High (with padlock) | Sheds, chests, gates |

Thumb latch (Norfolk latch): 1) Forge handle plate: flat bar with decorative shape, 8-10 inches long. 2) Forge thumb piece: lever that passes through door. 3) Forge latch bar: flat bar that lifts to open, drops to close. 4) Forge keeper (catch): U-shaped bracket on door frame. 5) Assembly: thumb piece lifts latch bar when pressed; gravity drops latch bar into keeper when released. 6) Punch mounting holes in handle plate. 7) Rivet thumb piece pivot to handle plate.

### Chapter 4: Lock Mechanisms

| Lock Type | Security | Complexity | Historical Period |
|---|---|---|---|
| Warded lock | Low-moderate | Moderate | Medieval to present |
| Lever lock | Moderate-high | High | 18th century to present |
| Pin tumbler | High | Very high | Ancient Egypt, modern |
| Padlock (warded) | Low-moderate | Moderate | Medieval to present |

Simple warded lock: 1) Lock body: forged box (2x3x1 inch). 2) Bolt: flat bar that slides in/out of lock body. 3) Wards: fixed obstructions inside lock body. 4) Key: flat key with cuts matching ward positions. 5) Spring: leaf spring that holds bolt in locked position. 6) Key turns, navigates past wards, pushes bolt against spring. 7) Bolt retracts, door opens. 8) Remove key, spring pushes bolt back to locked position.

### Chapter 5: Installation

| Hardware | Mounting Method | Fastener | Alignment Critical |
|---|---|---|---|
| Strap hinge | Lag screws or through-bolts | 5/16-3/8 inch | Yes (pin must be vertical) |
| Butt hinge | Wood screws in mortise | #10-#12 screws | Yes (leaves must be flush) |
| Thumb latch | Through-bolts or screws | 1/4 inch bolts | Yes (thumb piece must clear door) |
| Slide bolt | Screws | #10-#12 screws | Yes (bolt must align with keeper) |
| Hasp | Screws or bolts | #10-#14 screws | Moderate |

### Reference Card

1. The eye must be round and tight (the barrel of a strap hinge must wrap smoothly around the pin with no gaps; a sloppy eye makes a wobbly, squeaky hinge). 2. Forge weld the eye closed (an unwelded eye opens under load; forge welding the overlap creates a permanent, strong barrel). 3. Pin alignment is everything (both hinge eyes must align perfectly so the pin slides through smoothly; misaligned eyes bind and prevent the door from swinging). 4. Gravity is the latch mechanism (a thumb latch works because gravity pulls the latch bar down into the keeper; the thumb piece lifts it against gravity to open). 5. Punch holes before hardening (mounting holes must be punched while the metal is hot; trying to drill hardened steel is extremely difficult). 6. A hasp needs a padlock (a hasp and staple provide no security without a padlock; the hasp holds the door closed, the padlock prevents the hasp from being lifted). 7. Three hinges for heavy doors (a door over 6 feet tall or very heavy needs three hinges; two hinges on a heavy door will sag and bind). 8. The blacksmith makes the building functional (without hinges, latches, and locks, a building is just walls and a roof; hardware makes it livable and secure).