Sovereignty Module: Pour the Mold

Pour the Mold
Pour the Mold
Complete Slip Casting: From Plaster Mold to Production Pottery
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Complete Slip Casting: From Plaster Mold to Production Pottery

Slip casting allows production of identical ceramic pieces from liquid clay poured into plaster molds. This campaign covers slip preparation, mold making, casting, and finishing.

Chapter 1: Slip Casting Basics

Slip casting process: 1) Liquid clay (slip) is poured into a plaster mold. 2) The plaster absorbs water from the slip. 3) A layer of firm clay builds up against the mold wall. 4) Excess slip is poured out. 5) The clay layer (casting) dries and shrinks away from the mold. 6) The mold is opened and the casting is removed. 7) The casting is a hollow replica of the mold interior.

AdvantageExplanation
Identical piecesEvery casting from the same mold is identical
Thin wallsCastings can be very thin (1/8 inch)
Complex shapesShapes impossible to throw or hand-build
SpeedMultiple castings per day from one mold
ConsistencyUniform wall thickness
Low skill thresholdEasier than throwing for complex forms

Chapter 2: Casting Slip Preparation

ComponentPercentagePurpose
Clay (ball clay + kaolin)65-70% (dry weight)Body of the casting
Water30-35%Liquid medium
Sodium silicate (deflocculant)0.2-0.4%Thins slip without adding water
Soda ash (deflocculant)0.1-0.2%Assists sodium silicate

Deflocculant: 1) Without deflocculant, clay requires 50-60% water to become liquid. 2) With deflocculant, clay requires only 30-35% water. 3) Less water = less shrinkage = fewer cracks. 4) Less water = faster casting = more production. 5) Sodium silicate and soda ash change the electrical charge on clay particles. 6) Particles repel each other instead of clumping. 7) Result: fluid slip with minimum water.

Slip preparation: 1) Weigh dry clay (ball clay + kaolin blend). 2) Measure water (30-35% of clay weight). 3) Add deflocculant to water first (dissolve completely). 4) Add clay to water gradually (not water to clay). 5) Mix with drill mixer for 15-20 minutes. 6) Sieve through 80-mesh screen. 7) Allow to age 24 hours (improves casting). 8) Remix before use. 9) Target specific gravity: 1.75-1.80.

Chapter 3: Plaster Mold Making

Plaster TypeSetting TimeHardnessAbsorptionBest For
Pottery plaster (#1)20-25 minutesSoft-mediumHighSlip casting molds
Hydrocal15-20 minutesHardMediumPress molds, master molds
Ultracal 3025-30 minutesVery hardLow-mediumMaster molds, case molds

Plaster mixing: 1) Always add plaster to water (never water to plaster). 2) Ratio: 70 parts water to 100 parts plaster (by weight). 3) Sift plaster into water over 2-3 minutes. 4) Allow to slake (soak) for 2 minutes. 5) Mix by hand for 2-3 minutes (avoid air bubbles). 6) Pour when plaster reaches cream consistency. 7) Tap mold to release air bubbles. 8) Allow to set completely (20-30 minutes). 9) Do not disturb during setting.

Two-part mold: 1) Create original form (model) from clay, plaster, or found object. 2) Build clay wall (cottle) around model at parting line. 3) Apply mold release (petroleum jelly or soap). 4) Pour first half of mold. 5) Allow to set, remove clay wall. 6) Apply mold release to plaster surface. 7) Pour second half of mold. 8) Allow to set. 9) Separate halves, remove model. 10) Dry mold thoroughly (1-2 weeks) before first use.

Chapter 4: Casting Process

StepActionTimeCritical Factor
Assemble moldStrap or band halves together1 minuteTight seal, no gaps
Pour slipFill mold to top1 minutePour steadily, avoid air
Top offAdd slip as level drops5 minutesKeep mold full
CastWait for wall to build10-30 minutesDesired wall thickness
DrainPour out excess slip2 minutesInvert, drain completely
Set upAllow casting to firm15-30 minutesMust release from mold
Open moldSeparate halves carefully2 minutesDon't distort casting
Remove castingLift out gently1 minuteSupport thin walls
Trim seamScrape mold line with knife5 minutesSmooth, invisible seam
DryAir dry slowly1-3 daysSlow = fewer cracks

Chapter 5: Finishing and Troubleshooting

ProblemCauseSolution
Casting too thinDrain too soonLeave slip in mold longer
Casting too thickDrain too lateDrain sooner
Bubbles in castingAir trapped in slipStir slip gently, pour slowly
CrackingDrying too fastDry slowly, cover loosely
Sticking to moldMold too wet or no releaseDry mold, apply release
Uneven thicknessMold not levelLevel mold before pouring
Soft castingToo much water in slipCheck specific gravity, add deflocculant

Reference Card

  1. Deflocculant is the key to casting slip (sodium silicate and soda ash allow clay to become liquid with minimal water; without deflocculant, slip would require too much water and crack during drying). 2. Always add plaster to water (adding water to plaster creates lumps that never dissolve; sifting plaster into water ensures a smooth, lump-free mix). 3. Casting time controls wall thickness (the longer slip stays in the mold, the thicker the wall; 10 minutes produces thin walls, 30 minutes produces thick walls; timing must be consistent for uniform results). 4. Plaster molds must be dry (a wet mold cannot absorb water from the slip; molds must be thoroughly dry before each use; rotate molds to allow drying between castings). 5. The parting line determines mold complexity (a simple cup needs a two-part mold; a teapot may need a five-part mold; plan the parting line to allow easy removal without undercuts). 6. Trim the seam while leather-hard (the mold seam line is visible on every casting; trimming with a knife at the leather-hard stage produces the cleanest result). 7. Slip casting enables production (a single mold can produce dozens of identical pieces per day; this is how pottery workshops produce matching sets of cups, bowls, and plates). 8. The mold is the master (the quality of every casting depends on the quality of the mold; invest time in making a perfect mold, and every casting will be perfect).
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