# Sovereignty Module: Set the Anvil

## Complete Anvil Stand and Blacksmith Shop Setup: From Ground to Workshop

A properly set up blacksmith shop is the foundation of all metalworking. This campaign covers anvil selection, stand construction, forge layout, and shop organization.

### Chapter 1: Anvil Selection

| Type | Weight | Material | Use | Availability |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| London pattern | 100-300 lbs | Cast/forged steel | General blacksmithing | Traditional, best |
| Farrier anvil | 75-150 lbs | Steel | Horseshoeing, light work | Specialized |
| Railroad track (improvised) | 30-80 lbs (section) | High carbon steel | Emergency, light work | Salvage |
| Large rock (primitive) | 50-200 lbs | Granite, basalt | Primitive metalworking | Everywhere |
| Stake anvil | 10-30 lbs | Steel | Sheet metal, jewelry | Specialized |
| Swage block | 50-150 lbs | Cast iron | Forming, bending | Specialized |

Anvil features: 1) Face: flat top surface (hardened steel, smooth). 2) Horn: pointed end (for bending curves). 3) Hardy hole: square hole in face (holds hardy tools). 4) Pritchel hole: round hole in face (for punching through). 5) Step: shelf between face and horn (for cutting). 6) Heel: back end of face. 7) Waist: narrow section between face and base. 8) Base: bottom (sits on stand).

### Chapter 2: Anvil Stand Construction

| Stand Type | Material | Height | Stability | Difficulty |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Hardwood stump | Oak, elm, or maple log | Knuckle height | Excellent | Low |
| Fabricated steel | Steel plate and tube | Adjustable | Very good | Moderate |
| Concrete-filled drum | 55-gallon drum + concrete | Fixed | Excellent | Low |
| Timber frame | 6x6 timbers bolted together | Knuckle height | Very good | Moderate |
| Log round (short section) | Large diameter log | Knuckle height | Good | Very low |

Hardwood stump stand: 1) Select hardwood log 18-24 inches diameter. 2) Cut to height: anvil face at knuckle height (when standing with arm at side, fist closed). 3) Typical height: 28-32 inches (including anvil). 4) Level top surface. 5) Set anvil on top. 6) Secure anvil: chain around waist, bolted to stump, or steel straps. 7) Bury stump base 6-12 inches in ground (stability). 8) Or set on concrete pad (prevents settling). 9) Stump absorbs hammer blows (reduces vibration and noise). 10) Hardwood is essential (softwood splits and compresses).

### Chapter 3: Forge Layout

| Station | Position | Distance from Anvil | Purpose |
|---|---|---|---|
| Forge (fire) | To smith's left (right-handed) | 2-3 feet (one step) | Heat metal |
| Anvil | Center of work area | N/A | Shape metal |
| Vise (post vise) | To smith's right | 3-4 feet | Hold work for filing, bending |
| Quench tank | Between forge and anvil | Within arm's reach | Cool work, harden |
| Tool rack | Behind anvil | Within arm's reach | Hold hammers, tongs, tools |
| Stock rack | Along wall | 6-10 feet | Store bar stock |
| Workbench | Along wall | 6-10 feet | Layout, filing, assembly |

Layout principles: 1) Forge and anvil are the primary work triangle. 2) Smith should move between forge and anvil with one step. 3) Quench tank within arm's reach of anvil. 4) Vise close but not blocking movement. 5) Tool rack behind smith (reach without turning). 6) Clear floor around anvil (no trip hazards). 7) Good lighting on anvil face (natural light from side, not behind). 8) Ventilation: forge hood and chimney directly above forge.

### Chapter 4: Essential Tools

| Tool | Purpose | Minimum Quantity | Priority |
|---|---|---|---|
| Cross-peen hammer (2-3 lbs) | General forging | 1 | Essential |
| Ball-peen hammer (1-2 lbs) | Riveting, light work | 1 | Essential |
| Flat-jaw tongs | Hold flat stock | 1 pair | Essential |
| V-bit tongs | Hold round and square stock | 1 pair | Essential |
| Hardy (hot cut) | Cut hot metal on anvil | 1 | Essential |
| Punch (round) | Make holes in hot metal | 1 | Essential |
| Wire brush | Clean scale from work | 1 | Essential |
| Fire tools (poker, rake) | Manage forge fire | 1 set | Essential |
| Drift (round) | Open and size holes | 1 | Important |
| Flatter | Smooth flat surfaces | 1 | Important |
| Fuller (top and bottom) | Create grooves, spread metal | 1 set | Important |
| Swage (top and bottom) | Form round shapes | 1 set | Useful |

### Chapter 5: Safety

| Hazard | Protection | Rule |
|---|---|---|
| Burns (hot metal) | Tongs, leather apron, awareness | Never touch metal without testing (back of hand near, not on) |
| Eye injury (scale, sparks) | Safety glasses (always) | Wear eye protection whenever forge is lit |
| Hearing damage | Ear protection | Wear hearing protection during heavy hammering |
| Fire | Fire extinguisher, clear floor | Keep combustibles away from forge, have water available |
| Carbon monoxide | Ventilation, forge hood | Never operate forge in enclosed space without ventilation |
| Tripping | Clear floor, organized shop | Keep floor clear around anvil and forge |

### Reference Card

1. Anvil face at knuckle height (when standing with arm relaxed at your side and fist closed, the anvil face should be at knuckle height; this allows the hammer to strike flat with a relaxed arm). 2. One step from forge to anvil (the smith moves between forge and anvil hundreds of times per day; one step between them saves energy and maintains work rhythm). 3. Hardwood absorbs the blow (a hardwood stump stand absorbs hammer energy and reduces vibration; metal stands ring and transmit shock to the smith's arm). 4. The forge is to the left (for a right-handed smith, the forge is to the left so the left hand holds tongs in the fire while the right hand is free to manage the fire). 5. Eye protection is non-negotiable (hot scale flies from every hammer blow; a single piece of scale in the eye can cause permanent damage; wear safety glasses whenever the forge is lit). 6. Ventilation prevents death (a coal or charcoal forge produces carbon monoxide; without a hood and chimney, CO accumulates and kills; never forge in an enclosed space). 7. The quench tank within reach (after hardening, the blade must be quenched immediately; the quench tank must be within arm's reach of the anvil). 8. A well-organized shop is a productive shop (every tool in its place, clear floor, good lighting, and logical layout allow the smith to work efficiently and safely).