Sovereignty Module: Set the Teeth
Complete Saw Making: From Steel to Cutting Edge
Saws are essential for woodworking and construction. This campaign covers saw types, blade forging, tooth cutting, setting, and handle making.
Chapter 1: Saw Types
| Type | Blade | Teeth | Cut Direction | Primary Use |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Crosscut saw | Wide, tapered | Knife-point (alternating) | Push or pull | Cutting across grain |
| Rip saw | Wide, tapered | Chisel-point (straight) | Push | Cutting with grain |
| Bow saw (frame saw) | Narrow, tensioned | Various | Pull (usually) | General, curved cuts |
| Hack saw | Narrow, tensioned | Fine, hardened | Push | Metal cutting |
| Coping saw | Very narrow, tensioned | Fine | Pull | Curved cuts, detail |
| Two-man crosscut | Very wide, long | Large knife-point | Push-pull | Felling trees, log cutting |
| Pit saw | Very wide, long | Rip teeth | Push-pull (vertical) | Ripping logs into boards |
Chapter 2: Blade Forging
Saw blade from sheet steel: 1) Start with high-carbon steel sheet (1075 or 1084). 2) Thickness: 0.025-0.035 inch (22-20 gauge) for hand saws. 3) Cut blade shape: tapered from handle to tip. 4) Width: 4-6 inches at handle, 2-3 inches at tip. 5) Length: 20-26 inches for hand saw. 6) Grind edges smooth. 7) Flatten blade (must be perfectly flat). 8) Harden: heat to non-magnetic, quench in oil. 9) Temper: 500-550°F (blue color) for spring temper. 10) Blade should flex and spring back.
| Saw Type | Blade Length | Blade Width | Thickness | Teeth Per Inch |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Crosscut (hand) | 22-26 inches | 4-6 inches (tapered) | 0.025-0.032 inch | 8-12 TPI |
| Rip (hand) | 24-28 inches | 5-6 inches (tapered) | 0.032-0.042 inch | 4-7 TPI |
| Bow saw | 18-30 inches | 3/4-1 inch | 0.025 inch | 6-10 TPI |
| Two-man crosscut | 48-72 inches | 6-8 inches | 0.065-0.080 inch | 4-6 TPI |
Chapter 3: Tooth Cutting
Tooth cutting: 1) Mark tooth spacing on blade edge. 2) Use triangular file (saw file). 3) Clamp blade in saw vise (teeth just above vise jaws). 4) File between marks at correct angle. 5) Crosscut teeth: file at 60-degree angle, alternating sides. 6) Rip teeth: file straight across (90 degrees to blade). 7) Each stroke creates two teeth (one on each side of the file). 8) File until all teeth are uniform height and shape. 9) Joint teeth: run flat file lightly across all tooth tips. 10) This ensures all teeth are the same height.
| Tooth Type | File Angle | Tooth Shape | Cut Action |
|---|---|---|---|
| Crosscut | 60-65 degrees (alternating) | Knife point | Scores fibers |
| Rip | 90 degrees (straight across) | Chisel point | Chisels wood |
| Combination | 75 degrees | Modified | Both cross and rip |
Chapter 4: Setting Teeth
Setting: 1) Setting bends alternate teeth slightly left and right. 2) This makes the cut (kerf) wider than the blade. 3) Without set, the blade binds in the cut. 4) Use saw set tool (plier-like tool that bends one tooth at a time). 5) Or use a punch and anvil (tap each tooth to bend slightly). 6) Set amount: each tooth bends 0.005-0.010 inch. 7) Total kerf width = blade thickness + (2 x set amount). 8) More set = wider kerf = easier cutting but rougher surface. 9) Less set = narrower kerf = harder cutting but smoother surface.
| Wood Type | Set Amount | Kerf Width | Reason |
|---|---|---|---|
| Green (wet) wood | Heavy (0.010 inch) | Wide | Wet wood grabs blade |
| Dry hardwood | Light (0.005 inch) | Narrow | Less waste, cleaner cut |
| Dry softwood | Medium (0.007 inch) | Medium | Balance of ease and finish |
| Frozen wood | Very heavy (0.012 inch) | Very wide | Ice grabs blade |
Chapter 5: Handle Making
| Handle Type | Material | Attachment | Best For |
|---|---|---|---|
| Pistol grip (closed) | Hardwood | Bolts through blade | Hand saws |
| Straight handle | Hardwood | Bolts or tang | Bow saws, back saws |
| Tote (open top) | Hardwood | Bolts through blade | Traditional hand saws |
| Wrapped handle | Cord or leather over tang | Wrapped and glued | Primitive saws |
Handle construction: 1) Select dense hardwood (beech, maple, cherry). 2) Cut handle shape (pistol grip or straight). 3) Drill bolt holes to match blade holes. 4) Shape handle for comfortable grip. 5) Sand smooth (220-400 grit). 6) Apply finish (oil, varnish, or wax). 7) Bolt handle to blade (brass bolts traditional). 8) Handle should be comfortable for extended use.
Reference Card
- Crosscut teeth score, rip teeth chisel (crosscut teeth are filed to knife points that score wood fibers across the grain; rip teeth are filed to chisel points that shave wood along the grain; using the wrong tooth type makes cutting difficult). 2. Setting prevents binding (alternate teeth bent slightly left and right make the cut wider than the blade; without set, friction causes the blade to bind and stick in the cut). 3. Spring temper is essential (a saw blade must flex without taking a permanent bend; tempering to blue (500-550°F) produces the spring temper that allows a blade to flex and return to straight). 4. Joint teeth for even cutting (running a flat file lightly across all tooth tips ensures every tooth is the same height; uneven teeth cause the saw to cut rough and wander). 5. File crosscut teeth at 60 degrees (the angle of the file determines the tooth shape; 60 degrees produces the knife-point shape that scores wood fibers cleanly across the grain). 6. More teeth per inch means smoother cut (fine teeth (10-12 TPI) produce smooth cuts but cut slowly; coarse teeth (4-6 TPI) cut fast but rough; choose TPI based on the work). 7. A sharp saw requires less effort (a dull saw requires excessive force and produces rough cuts; regular sharpening with a saw file keeps teeth cutting efficiently). 8. Saw making combines metallurgy and precision (forging a thin, flat blade, cutting uniform teeth, setting them consistently, and fitting a comfortable handle requires mastery of multiple crafts).