# Sovereignty Module: Start the Seed

## Complete Seed Germination and Nursery Management: From Dormancy to Transplant

Every garden, orchard, and forest begins with a seed. This campaign covers seed biology, germination techniques, seedling care, hardening off, and nursery management.

### Chapter 1: Seed Biology

| Factor | Detail | Significance |
|---|---|---|
| Viability | Percentage of seeds that will germinate | Decreases with age and poor storage |
| Dormancy | Mechanism preventing premature germination | Must be broken before germination |
| Stratification | Cold/moist treatment (simulates winter) | Required by many temperate species |
| Scarification | Physical/chemical seed coat treatment | Required by hard-coated seeds |
| Light requirement | Some seeds need light to germinate | Don't bury too deep |
| Temperature | Each species has optimal germination temp | Too cold or hot = failure |
| Moisture | Seeds must absorb water to germinate | Consistent moisture critical |

| Seed Storage Life | Examples | Storage Conditions |
|---|---|---|
| 1-2 years | Onion, parsley, parsnip | Cool, dry, dark |
| 3-4 years | Pepper, bean, pea, corn | Cool, dry, dark |
| 5-6 years | Tomato, cucumber, melon, squash | Cool, dry, dark |
| 7-10+ years | Lettuce (variable), some grains | Cool, dry, dark |

### Chapter 2: Germination Techniques

| Method | Best For | Equipment | Difficulty | Speed |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Direct sow (outdoor) | Large seeds, root crops | Garden bed | Very low | Variable |
| Indoor seed starting | Warm-season crops, small seeds | Trays, soil, light | Low | Fast (controlled) |
| Winter sowing | Hardy perennials, trees | Milk jugs, outdoor | Very low | Slow (natural) |
| Paper towel method | Testing viability, fast starters | Paper towel, bag | Very low | Fast |
| Soil blocks | Transplant-sensitive species | Block maker, mix | Moderate | Fast |
| Stratification (cold) | Temperate trees, perennials | Fridge, moist medium | Low | Slow (weeks-months) |
| Scarification | Hard-coated seeds (morning glory, lupine) | Sandpaper, hot water | Very low | Then normal |

Indoor seed starting: 1) Fill trays/cells with seed starting mix (light, sterile, well-draining). 2) Moisten mix before filling (should be damp, not soggy). 3) Plant seeds at correct depth (general rule: 2x seed diameter). 4) Very fine seeds: press onto surface, don't cover. 5) Cover tray with plastic dome or wrap (maintains humidity). 6) Place in warm location (70-80°F for most vegetables). 7) Remove cover when seeds emerge. 8) Provide strong light immediately (south window or grow lights, 14-16 hours/day). 9) Keep soil consistently moist (not wet). 10) Thin to one seedling per cell when first true leaves appear. 11) Begin fertilizing at 1/4 strength when true leaves appear.

### Chapter 3: Seedling Care

| Problem | Cause | Solution | Prevention |
|---|---|---|---|
| Leggy seedlings | Insufficient light | Move closer to light, lower temperature | Provide strong light from day one |
| Damping off | Fungal disease (wet, poor air flow) | Remove affected, improve air flow | Sterile mix, don't overwater, air circulation |
| Yellow leaves | Nutrient deficiency, overwatering | Fertilize, check drainage | Proper mix, correct watering |
| Wilting | Underwatering, root damage, disease | Water, check roots | Consistent moisture |
| Slow growth | Cold temperature, poor light, poor nutrition | Warm, light, fertilize | Correct environment |
| Purple leaves | Phosphorus deficiency (often cold soil) | Warm soil, fertilize | Maintain soil temperature |

Watering seedlings: 1) Bottom watering is best (set tray in water, let soil wick up). 2) This encourages deep root growth. 3) Top watering is fine if gentle (misting or small watering can). 4) Water when surface is dry to touch (not before). 5) Never let seedlings sit in standing water (root rot). 6) Morning watering is best (leaves dry during day). 7) Consistent moisture is key (not wet-dry cycles).

### Chapter 4: Hardening Off

| Day | Outdoor Exposure | Conditions | Protection |
|---|---|---|---|
| 1-2 | 1-2 hours | Shade, sheltered from wind | Bring inside at night |
| 3-4 | 3-4 hours | Partial sun, light breeze | Bring inside at night |
| 5-6 | 5-6 hours | More sun, some wind | Bring inside if frost |
| 7-8 | 8-10 hours | Full sun, normal wind | Can stay out overnight if mild |
| 9-10 | Full day and night | Full conditions | Ready to transplant |

Hardening off procedure: 1) Begin 7-14 days before planned transplant date. 2) First day: place seedlings outdoors in shade, sheltered spot, for 1-2 hours. 3) Gradually increase time and sun exposure each day. 4) Reduce watering slightly (don't let wilt). 5) Stop fertilizing during hardening. 6) Bring inside if temperature drops below 45°F (for warm-season crops). 7) By day 10-14: seedlings should handle full sun and outdoor temperatures. 8) Transplant on a cloudy day or in evening (less transplant shock). 9) Water thoroughly after transplanting.

### Chapter 5: Nursery Management

| Task | Frequency | Purpose | Method |
|---|---|---|---|
| Watering | Daily (check) | Maintain moisture | Bottom water or gentle top water |
| Fertilizing | Weekly (after true leaves) | Nutrition | 1/4 to 1/2 strength liquid fertilizer |
| Thinning | Once (at true leaf stage) | Reduce competition | Scissors (cut, don't pull) |
| Potting up | When rootbound | More root space | Move to larger container |
| Air circulation | Constant | Prevent disease | Fan on low, open vents |
| Light management | Daily | Prevent legginess | 14-16 hours strong light |
| Record keeping | Each batch | Track varieties, dates | Label everything |
| Pest monitoring | Daily | Early detection | Inspect undersides of leaves |

### Reference Card

1. Light is the most common limiting factor (leggy, weak seedlings almost always need more light; provide 14-16 hours of strong light). 2. Bottom water for strong roots (setting trays in water encourages roots to grow down; top watering encourages shallow roots). 3. Don't skip hardening off (transplanting indoor seedlings directly outdoors causes shock, sunburn, and death; take 10-14 days). 4. Sterile mix prevents damping off (use commercial seed starting mix or sterilize your own; garden soil carries fungal diseases). 5. Thin ruthlessly (crowded seedlings compete and all suffer; cut extras with scissors, don't pull, which disturbs roots). 6. Label everything (you will not remember which tray is which variety; label at planting and maintain labels through transplant). 7. Cool nights strengthen seedlings (slightly cool night temperatures, 55-65°F, produce stockier, stronger plants). 8. The seed knows (seeds contain everything needed to become a plant; your job is to provide the right conditions and get out of the way).