Sovereignty Module: Clothe the Body
Clothe the Body
Complete Textiles: From Fiber to Garment
Complete Textiles: From Fiber to Garment
Clothing protects from elements, prevents disease, and enables work in all conditions. This campaign covers fiber processing, spinning, weaving, dyeing, and garment construction.
Chapter 1: Fiber Sources
| Fiber | Type | Climate | Processing | Warmth | Durability | Best For |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Wool (sheep) | Animal | Temperate-cold | Shear, wash, card, spin | Excellent (warm when wet) | High | Cold climate clothing, blankets |
| Cotton | Plant | Warm/tropical | Pick, gin, card, spin | Moderate | Moderate | Hot climate clothing, sheets |
| Flax (linen) | Plant | Temperate | Ret, break, hackle, spin | Low (cool wearing) | Very high | Summer clothing, canvas, rope |
| Hemp | Plant | Temperate | Ret, break, hackle, spin | Low-moderate | Very high | Canvas, rope, work clothing |
| Silk | Animal (worm) | Warm | Reel from cocoons, twist | Moderate | Moderate-high | Fine clothing, thread |
| Nettle | Plant (wild) | Temperate | Ret, process like flax | Low-moderate | High | Clothing, cordage |
| Bark (cedar, basswood) | Plant | Various | Strip, soften, shred | Low | Low-moderate | Mats, capes, cordage |
| Fur/hide | Animal | Any | Tan, cut, sew | Excellent | High | Cold climate, outer garments |
| Cattail/milkweed | Plant (wild) | Temperate | Collect fluff | Good (insulation) | Low | Stuffing, insulation |
Chapter 2: Spinning
| Method | Speed | Quality | Portability | Cost | Best For |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Hand twisting (thigh spinning) | Very slow | Variable | Maximum | Free | Emergency cordage, learning |
| Drop spindle | Slow | Good-excellent | High | Very low ($5-20 or make) | Portable, all fibers, learning |
| Supported spindle | Slow | Good | High | Very low | Short fibers (cotton) |
| Spinning wheel (great wheel) | Moderate | Good | Low | Moderate (build or buy) | Wool, long fibers |
| Spinning wheel (flyer) | Fast | Excellent | Low | Moderate-high | All fibers, production |
| Charkha (book wheel) | Moderate | Good | Moderate | Low | Cotton, fine fibers |
Drop spindle technique: Attach leader yarn to spindle. Draft fibers from prepared roving (pull thin). Spin spindle clockwise (Z-twist). Fibers twist together as spindle rotates. When arm's length spun, wind onto spindle shaft. Repeat. Ply: spin two singles together counter-clockwise (S-twist) for balanced yarn. Practice 10+ hours before expecting usable yarn.
Chapter 3: Weaving
| Loom Type | Width | Complexity | Portability | Cost | Best For |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Backstrap loom | 12-24" | Low | Maximum (fits in bag) | Very low (sticks + string) | Belts, narrow fabric, portable |
| Rigid heddle loom | 10-32" | Low-moderate | Moderate | Low-moderate | Beginners, scarves, fabric |
| Frame loom | 12-36" | Low | Moderate | Very low (build) | Tapestry, rugs, learning |
| Floor loom (2-shaft) | 24-60" | Moderate | None | Moderate-high | Plain weave fabric |
| Floor loom (4-shaft) | 24-60" | High | None | High | Twills, complex patterns |
| Warp-weighted loom | 24-60" | Moderate | Low (vertical) | Low (build) | Historical, large fabric |
Basic weaving: Set up warp (lengthwise threads, under tension). Pass weft (crosswise thread) over-under warp threads. Beat weft tight with comb/beater. Repeat. Plain weave: over 1, under 1. Twill: over 2, under 1 (diagonal pattern, stronger). Heddles lift warp threads in groups to speed the over-under process.
Chapter 4: Dyeing
| Dye Source | Color | Mordant | Lightfastness | Washfastness | Availability |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Onion skins | Yellow-gold | Alum | Good | Good | Kitchen waste |
| Walnut hulls | Brown-black | None needed | Excellent | Excellent | Fall harvest |
| Indigo (woad) | Blue | None (vat dye) | Excellent | Excellent | Cultivated |
| Madder root | Red-orange | Alum | Good | Good | Cultivated (3 year root) |
| Pokeberry | Purple-pink | None | Poor | Poor | Wild (fall berries) |
| Oak bark | Tan-brown | Iron | Good | Good | Widespread |
| Goldenrod | Yellow | Alum | Moderate | Good | Wild (fall flowers) |
| Cochineal | Red-crimson | Alum | Excellent | Excellent | Cultivated (cactus insect) |
| Elderberry | Purple-blue | Alum + salt | Moderate | Moderate | Wild (fall berries) |
| Marigold | Yellow-orange | Alum | Moderate | Good | Garden flower |
Mordanting: Most natural dyes need a mordant (metal salt) to bond permanently to fiber. Alum (potassium aluminum sulfate): safest, brightest colors. Dissolve 15-20% weight of fiber in hot water. Soak fiber 1-2 hours. Wring gently. Dye immediately or dry for later. Iron mordant: saddens/darkens colors. Copper: greens colors. Chrome: brightens (toxic, avoid).
Chapter 5: Garment Construction
| Garment | Fabric Needed | Skill Level | Time | Tools | Priority |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Tunic (simple) | 2-3 yards | Beginner | 2-4 hours | Needle, thread, scissors | Critical (basic covering) |
| Trousers (drawstring) | 2-3 yards | Beginner-moderate | 3-5 hours | Needle, thread, scissors | High |
| Cloak/cape | 3-4 yards | Beginner | 1-2 hours | Needle, thread, pin/brooch | High (weather protection) |
| Socks (knitted) | 100-200g yarn | Moderate | 8-16 hours | Knitting needles (4-5) | Critical (foot protection) |
| Mittens (knitted) | 50-100g yarn | Moderate | 4-8 hours | Knitting needles (4-5) | High (cold climate) |
| Hat (knitted/felted) | 50-100g yarn | Beginner-moderate | 4-8 hours | Knitting needles or felt | High (heat loss prevention) |
| Moccasins (leather) | 2-3 sq ft leather | Beginner-moderate | 4-8 hours | Needle, awl, thread | Critical (foot protection) |
| Coat (quilted) | 4-6 yards + batting | Advanced | 10-20 hours | Needle, thread, scissors | High (cold climate) |
Chapter 6: Fiber Preparation
| Process | Purpose | Fiber | Method | Time | Equipment |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Shearing | Remove fleece from sheep | Wool | Hand shears or electric | 5-15 min/sheep | Shears |
| Scouring | Remove lanolin/dirt | Wool | Hot water + soap, rinse | 1-2 hours | Tubs, hot water |
| Carding | Align fibers, remove debris | Wool, cotton | Hand cards (wire brushes) | 5-10 min/batt | Hand cards |
| Combing | Align long fibers, remove short | Wool (worsted) | Wool combs (heated) | 10-20 min/prep | Wool combs |
| Retting | Separate fiber from stem | Flax, hemp | Soak in water 1-3 weeks | 1-3 weeks | Pond or tank |
| Breaking | Crack woody core | Flax, hemp | Flax brake (hinged boards) | Minutes | Flax brake |
| Hackling | Comb out short fibers | Flax, hemp | Pull through hackle (nails in board) | Minutes | Hackle |
| Ginning | Remove seeds from fiber | Cotton | Cotton gin (rollers) | Variable | Gin (build or buy) |
Reference Card
- Wool: warmest fiber, warm even when wet. Shear → scour → card → spin → knit/weave. One sheep = 5-10 lbs raw fleece/year.
- Flax/linen: strongest plant fiber. Cool to wear. Ret → break → hackle → spin → weave. Plant in spring, harvest in summer.
- Drop spindle: cheapest, most portable spinning tool. Make from a stick + whorl (clay disk). Learn in 10 hours. Spin anywhere.
- Plain weave: simplest, strongest weave. Over 1, under 1. Any loom. Backstrap loom = zero cost, maximum portability.
- Mordant first: alum (15-20% weight of fiber) in hot water. Soak 1-2 hours. Then dye. Without mordant, color washes out.
- Walnut hulls: permanent brown-black dye. No mordant needed. Collect in fall. Boil hulls, soak fiber. Stains everything (wear gloves).
- Simple tunic: rectangle of fabric, fold, cut neck hole, sew sides. 2 hours. Covers body. Add belt. Functional clothing from any fabric.
- Knitting: produces stretchy fabric ideal for socks, hats, mittens. Two needles + yarn. Learn in 1-2 hours. Practice for speed.
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