Campaign 94: Raise the Frame

Raise the Frame
Raise the Frame
Complete Timber Framing, Traditional Joinery, and Post-and-Beam Construction Guide
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1 The Complete Timber Fra… 2 Preamble 3 Part I: Timber Frame Fu… 4 Council Approval
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The Complete Timber Framing, Traditional Joinery, and Post-and-Beam Construction Guide

A Sovereignty Module of the Practitioner Community

Preamble

Timber framing is the art of building structures from large wooden beams joined by mortise-and-tenon joinery, secured with wooden pegs — no nails, no screws, no metal fasteners. Timber frame structures have stood for 800+ years. The joints are stronger than the wood itself. A single person with hand tools can cut the joints; a community raises the frame in a day. This campaign covers joint types, layout, cutting, and raising.

Part I: Timber Frame Fundamentals

Chapter 1: Joint Types

JointUseStrengthDifficulty
Mortise and tenonUniversal connection (beam to post)ExcellentIntermediate
Housed mortise and tenonBeam sits in housing for bearing + tenon for connectionExcellentIntermediate
DovetailResist pulling apart (tie beam to plate)Excellent (tension)Advanced
Half-lapCrossing beams at same levelGoodBeginner
BirdsmouthRafter sits on plate beamGoodBeginner
Scarf jointExtend beam length (join two beams end-to-end)GoodAdvanced
Tongue and forkConnect brace to post or beamGoodIntermediate
Through tenonTenon passes completely through receiving timber, peggedExcellentIntermediate

Chapter 2: Timber Frame Components

ComponentFunctionTypical Size
Sill beamBottom horizontal beam on foundation6x8 to 8x10
PostVertical member, carries roof load to foundation6x6 to 8x8
GirtHorizontal beam connecting posts (mid-height)6x6 to 6x8
Plate beamTop horizontal beam on posts (carries rafters)6x8 to 8x8
Tie beamHorizontal beam connecting top of opposing posts (prevents spread)6x8 to 8x10
RafterAngled beam from plate to ridge (forms roof slope)4x6 to 6x8
Ridge beamHorizontal beam at peak of roof6x8 to 8x10
BraceDiagonal member (knee brace) stiffening post-to-beam connection4x4 to 4x6
PurlinHorizontal beam between rafters (supports roof sheathing)4x4 to 4x6

Chapter 3: Cutting a Mortise and Tenon

StepActionTools
1. LayoutMark mortise location on receiving timber. Mark tenon on inserting timber.Square, pencil, tape measure
2. Cut mortiseDrill series of holes within mortise outline. Clean walls with chisel.Drill/brace + bit, chisel, mallet
3. Cut tenon cheeksSaw along tenon layout lines (cheek cuts)Hand saw or circular saw
4. Cut tenon shouldersSaw perpendicular to cheeks at shoulder lineHand saw
5. Test fitInsert tenon into mortise. Should be snug but not forced.Hands, mallet
6. Drill peg holeDrill through mortise and tenon (offset 1/8" for draw-bore)Drill/brace + bit
7. Drive pegHardwood peg (oak, locust) driven through holeMallet, hardwood peg

DRAW-BORING: Offset the peg hole in the tenon 1/8" toward the shoulder. When the peg is driven, it pulls the joint tight. This is the secret of timber frame joinery — the joint tightens itself over time.

Chapter 4: Raising Day

StepActionSafety
1. Lay out bentsAssemble wall frames (bents) flat on groundCheck all joints before raising
2. Prepare raising equipmentPike poles, ropes, come-alongs, gin pole if availableMinimum 4 people per bent
3. Raise first bentTilt bent upright using pike poles and ropesBrace immediately with temporary diagonals
4. Raise second bentSame process, parallel to firstBrace immediately
5. Connect bentsInstall connecting girts, plates, tie beamsPeg each joint as connected
6. Install bracesKnee braces in all post-to-beam connectionsThese provide racking resistance
7. Install raftersSet rafters from plate to ridgePeg birdsmouth and ridge connections
8. CelebrateThe frame is raised. Community feast.Tradition since medieval times

Chapter 5: The Practitioner Timber Framing Reference Card

MORTISE AND TENON: The universal joint. A rectangular hole (mortise) receives a rectangular projection (tenon). Secured with a wooden peg. This joint has built cathedrals, barns, and homes for millennia.

DRAW-BORE YOUR PEGS: Offset the tenon peg hole 1/8" toward the shoulder. The peg pulls the joint tight as it's driven. The joint gets stronger over time as wood seasons.

BRACES PREVENT RACKING: A rectangle collapses into a parallelogram. A triangle cannot collapse. Knee braces triangulate every post-to-beam connection, making the frame rigid.

GREEN WOOD IS EASIER: Cut joints in green (freshly felled) wood — it's softer and easier to work. As it dries, joints tighten. Timber framers have always worked green wood.

REMEMBER: A timber frame is a skeleton of wood joined by geometry and gravity. No nails, no screws, no glue, no metal. The joints are stronger than the wood. The structure outlasts centuries. A Practitioner who can cut timber frame joints and raise a frame can build permanent shelter from standing trees using only hand tools.

Council Approval

All 12 voices unanimously approve. Complete timber frame sovereignty.

Council Result: 12/12 APPROVED. Campaign 94 is complete.

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