# Sovereignty Module: Weave the Cloth

## Complete Weaving, Loom Construction, and Fabric Production Guide

Woven cloth is the foundation of clothing, shelter, and trade. A single loom transforms thread into fabric at speeds impossible by any other method. This campaign covers loom types, construction, and weaving techniques from simple to complex.

### Chapter 1: Loom Types

| Loom Type | Complexity | Width | Speed | Portability | Best For |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Backstrap loom | Low | 12-24 inches | Slow | Excellent (rolls up) | Narrow bands, belts, straps |
| Inkle loom | Low | 1-4 inches | Moderate | Good | Bands, straps, trim |
| Rigid heddle loom | Low-moderate | 10-32 inches | Moderate | Good | Scarves, towels, simple cloth |
| Frame loom | Low | Any size | Slow | Moderate | Tapestry, rugs, learning |
| Warp-weighted loom | Moderate | 24-60 inches | Moderate | Low | Historical, heavy fabrics |
| Floor loom (2-shaft) | Moderate | 24-60 inches | Fast | None | Plain weave, basic patterns |
| Floor loom (4-shaft) | High | 24-60 inches | Fast | None | Twills, complex patterns |
| Floor loom (8+ shaft) | Very high | 24-60 inches | Fast | None | Complex patterns, damask |

### Chapter 2: Weave Structures

| Structure | Shafts Needed | Properties | Use |
|---|---|---|---|
| Plain weave (tabby) | 2 | Balanced, strong, simple | General cloth, canvas, muslin |
| Twill (2/2) | 4 | Diagonal lines, drapes well, strong | Denim, flannel, gabardine |
| Twill (2/1, 3/1) | 3-4 | Warp or weft dominant face | Drill cloth, serge |
| Satin/sateen | 5-8 | Smooth, lustrous, floats | Formal fabrics, linings |
| Basket weave | 2 | Like plain but paired threads | Monks cloth, heavy fabrics |
| Waffle weave | 4-8 | Textured squares, absorbent | Towels, dishcloths |
| Herringbone | 4 | Zigzag twill pattern | Coats, blankets |
| Overshot | 4 | Decorative pattern floats over plain ground | Coverlets, decorative cloth |

### Chapter 3: Building a Simple Frame Loom

| Component | Material | Dimensions | Function |
|---|---|---|---|
| Frame | Hardwood (oak, maple) or sturdy lumber | 24x30 inches (adjustable) | Holds warp under tension |
| Nails or pegs (top and bottom) | Finishing nails or dowels | Spaced 1/4 inch apart (8 per inch) | Warp spacing |
| Shed stick | Flat smooth stick | Width of loom + 2 inches | Creates shed (opening for weft) |
| Heddle bar | Dowel with string heddles | Width of loom | Lifts alternate warp threads |
| Shuttle | Flat stick with notched ends | 2 inches longer than weaving width | Carries weft thread |
| Beater/comb | Wide-tooth comb or fork | Width of weaving | Packs weft threads tight |

### Chapter 4: Warping and Setup

| Step | Action | Details |
|---|---|---|
| 1 | Calculate warp: width x sett x length + loom waste | Sett = threads per inch (varies by yarn weight) |
| 2 | Wind warp (warping board or pegs) | Maintains even tension and cross |
| 3 | Transfer warp to loom | Maintain cross (thread order) |
| 4 | Tie warp to back beam or pegs | Even tension across all threads |
| 5 | Thread heddles (every other thread through heddle) | Creates the shed mechanism |
| 6 | Tie warp to front beam or pegs | Even tension, adjust as needed |
| 7 | Check tension (all threads equal) | Strum like harp, listen for even pitch |
| 8 | Begin weaving (throw shuttle, beat, change shed) | Establish rhythm |

Sett guide: Fine thread (sewing weight) = 20-30 epi (ends per inch). Medium (worsted yarn) = 12-18 epi. Bulky yarn = 6-10 epi. Rug yarn = 4-8 epi.

### Chapter 5: Weaving Process

| Step | Action | Rhythm |
|---|---|---|
| 1 | Open shed (lift heddle bar or press treadle) | Creates opening between warp layers |
| 2 | Pass shuttle through shed (left to right) | Carries weft across |
| 3 | Beat weft into place (push toward finished cloth) | Firm, even pressure |
| 4 | Change shed (lower heddle, lift shed stick) | Alternate warp threads now up |
| 5 | Pass shuttle back (right to left) | Second weft pick |
| 6 | Beat again | Same pressure as before |
| 7 | Repeat | Develop consistent rhythm |

Selvedge (edge): Maintain consistent weft tension at edges. Do not pull weft tight (draws in width). Leave small arc of weft before beating (allows for take-up). Consistent selvedges indicate skill.

### Chapter 6: Finishing Woven Cloth

| Process | Method | Purpose |
|---|---|---|
| Cutting off loom | Cut warp, tie fringe or hem | Removes finished cloth |
| Washing (fulling for wool) | Warm soapy water, agitate gently | Blooms fibers, evens weave |
| Pressing | Iron while damp | Smooths, sets weave |
| Hemming | Fold and stitch edges | Prevents unraveling |
| Fringing | Twist or braid warp ends | Decorative edge finish |
| Sizing (optional) | Starch or gelatin wash | Stiffens for specific uses |

Fulling (wool only): Wash in warm soapy water with gentle agitation. Fibers bloom and fill gaps in weave, creating denser, warmer, more wind-resistant fabric. Control carefully (too much = felt).

### Reference Card

1. Plain weave requires only 2 shafts: over one, under one, repeat
2. Sett (threads per inch) determines fabric density: too open = sleazy, too tight = stiff
3. Warp must be strong yarn (under constant tension). Weft can be any fiber.
4. Even tension across all warp threads is the single most important factor
5. Beat consistently: same pressure every pick creates even cloth
6. Selvedge quality shows skill: do not pull weft tight at edges
7. Twill (4-shaft) produces stronger, more drapey fabric than plain weave
8. Fulling (controlled washing) transforms loose wool weave into dense, warm cloth