Sovereignty Module: Hammer the Iron

Cover of Hammer the Iron
Hammer the Iron
Complete Blacksmithing Tools, Techniques, and Project Guide
⟁ cover painted for this edition — the source module carried no illustrations

Complete Blacksmithing Tools, Techniques, and Project Guide

The blacksmith transforms raw iron into every tool civilization requires: axes, plows, nails, hinges, knives, chains, horseshoes, and weapons. This campaign covers forge setup, essential techniques, and critical projects.

Chapter 1: Forge Setup Requirements

ComponentFunctionOptionsMinimum Spec
Forge (fire pot)Contains and concentrates heatBrake drum, firepot, stone hearth8-12 inch fire pot, 2-4 inch deep
Air supply (bellows/blower)Forces air into fire (increases temp)Hand bellows, electric blower, hand crankMust deliver 200+ CFM
FuelBurns to heat ironCharcoal (best for beginners), coal, cokeCharcoal: hardwood lump only
AnvilSolid surface for hammeringRailroad track, large steel block, actual anvil50+ lbs minimum, flat face
Hammer (cross-peen)Primary forming tool2-3 lb cross-peenProperly fitted handle
TongsHold hot metalVarious jaw shapes for different stockFlat-jaw and wolf-jaw minimum
Vise (post/leg vise)Holds work for filing, bendingBlacksmith leg vise (absorbs hammer blows)4+ inch jaws
Quench tankCools/hardens metalMetal bucket or troughLarge enough for longest piece
Wire brushCleans scale from hot metalStiff steel wire brushKeep at anvil
Slack tubWater for cooling tools/handsBarrel or bucketAlways full, always nearby

Chapter 2: Heat Colors and Temperatures

ColorTemperature (F)What You Can DoSteel Behavior
Black heat (no glow)Below 900FNothing (too cold to work)Will crack if hammered
Faint red (barely visible in dark)900-1,000FLight bending onlyMinimal plasticity
Dark red1,100-1,200FBending, light forgingBecoming workable
Cherry red1,400-1,500FGeneral forging, drawing outGood working heat
Bright cherry1,500-1,600FHeavy forging, upsettingExcellent working heat
Orange1,700-1,800FForge welding (wrought iron)Very plastic
Light orange/yellow1,900-2,100FForge welding (mild steel)Maximum plasticity
White/sparkling2,200F+BURNING (ruining metal)Grain destruction, unusable

RULE: Work at cherry red to orange. Below cherry = cracking risk. Above light yellow = burning. Forge welding requires orange-yellow with flux (borax).

Chapter 3: Essential Techniques

TechniquePurposeMethodHeat Required
Drawing outMake metal longer/thinnerHammer on far edge of anvil, rotate 90° between blowsCherry-orange
UpsettingMake metal shorter/thickerHeat end, hammer on end (like driving a nail backward)Bright cherry
BendingCreate angles/curvesHammer over anvil edge or in hardy holeCherry
PunchingCreate holesDrive punch halfway, flip, drive from other sideCherry-orange
DriftingEnlarge/shape holesDrive tapered drift through punched holeCherry
SplittingDivide metalHot chisel (hardy) driven partway throughCherry
Forge weldingJoin two pieces permanentlyHeat both to orange-yellow, flux (borax), hammer togetherOrange-yellow
ScrollingDecorative curvesHammer tip over anvil horn, working back graduallyCherry
FulleringCreate grooves/necksFuller tool (rounded edge) driven into hot metalCherry-orange
SwagingShape round/octagonalSwage block or top/bottom swage toolsCherry

Chapter 4: Heat Treatment (Hardening and Tempering)

StepActionTemperatureMediumResult
1. NormalizeHeat to cherry, air cool1,500F → airAirRelieves stress, refines grain
2. HardenHeat to cherry, quench rapidly1,475F → quenchOil (safer) or water (harder)Glass-hard but brittle
3. TemperReheat to specific color, quench375-600FAir or oilReduces brittleness, retains hardness

Tempering colors (after polishing hardened steel):

ColorTemperatureHardnessBest For
Pale straw375-400FVery hardRazors, engraving tools, scrapers
Straw/gold420-450FHardKnives, chisels, axes
Bronze/brown470-500FMedium-hardScissors, cold chisels, punches
Purple520-550FMediumSprings, swords, saw blades
Blue560-600FTough (less hard)Springs, screwdrivers

Chapter 5: Essential First Projects

ProjectDifficultyTechniques UsedTimeStock
S-hookBeginnerDrawing, scrolling, bending15-30 min1/4" round, 8" long
NailBeginnerDrawing, heading5-10 min1/4" square, 4" long
J-hookBeginnerDrawing, bending, scrolling15-20 min3/8" round, 10" long
Bottle openerBeginnerPunching, bending, scrolling30-45 min1/4" × 1" flat, 8" long
Knife (simple)IntermediateDrawing, beveling, heat treat2-4 hours1/4" × 1.5" flat, 8" long
TongsIntermediateDrawing, bending, riveting2-4 hours3/8" round, 18" long (×2)
Axe/hatchetAdvancedDrawing, punching, drifting, welding, heat treat4-8 hours1" × 2" flat, 6" long
Chain linkIntermediateBending, forge welding20-30 min/link3/8" round, 8" per link

Chapter 6: Fuel Comparison

FuelTemperature AchievableForge Welding?AvailabilityClinker/AshCost
Hardwood charcoal2,400F+ (with blast)YesMake yourself (see Charcoal campaign)Very little ashFree (if self-made)
Bituminous coal2,800F+Yes (easily)Coal mines, suppliersHeavy clinkerModerate
Coke (processed coal)3,000F+Yes (best)Industrial supplyMinimalModerate-high
Anthracite coal2,600F+Difficult (hard to light)Coal regionsLittleModerate
Propane (gas forge)2,350FBarely (with flux)Hardware storesNoneModerate
Wood (raw)1,800F maxNoEverywhereHeavy ashFree

Charcoal is the traditional blacksmith fuel: clean, hot enough for all work including forge welding, produces no sulfur (which ruins welds), and can be made from any hardwood. See Campaign on Charcoal Production.

Reference Card

  1. Work at cherry red (1,400-1,500F): below = cracking, above yellow = burning metal.
  2. Forge welding: both pieces to orange-yellow + borax flux + fast, firm hammer blows. Clean surfaces essential.
  3. Quench in oil for most tools (safer, less cracking). Water quench = harder but more brittle.
  4. Temper after hardening: polish, heat slowly, quench at straw/gold color (420-450F) for knives/axes.
  5. Anvil: railroad track works. Mount solidly at knuckle height. Face must be flat and hard.
  6. Charcoal fuel: make your own from hardwood. Clean, hot, no sulfur. Best beginner fuel.
  7. Tongs must fit the work: loose tongs = dropped hot metal = burns. Make tongs for each stock size.
  8. Let the hammer do the work: grip loosely, swing from shoulder for heavy blows, wrist for control.
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