Sovereignty Module: Forge the Plow
Complete Blacksmithing: Agricultural Implements: From Bar to Blade
Agricultural tools are the foundation of food production. This campaign covers forging plowshares, hoes, sickles, scythes, and other farm implements.
Chapter 1: Agricultural Implements
| Tool | Function | Stock | Difficulty | Priority |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Hoe (garden) | Weeding, cultivating | 1/4 x 3 inch flat bar | Low-moderate | Very high |
| Mattock/grub hoe | Breaking ground, roots | 3/8 x 3 inch flat bar | Moderate | High |
| Sickle | Harvesting grain, grass | 1/4 x 1.5 inch flat bar | Moderate | High |
| Plowshare | Breaking sod, turning soil | 3/8-1/2 inch plate | High | Very high |
| Coulter (plow knife) | Cutting sod ahead of plow | 1/4 inch plate | Moderate | Moderate |
| Hay fork (pitchfork) | Moving hay, straw | 3/8 inch round rod | Moderate-high | High |
| Rake (iron) | Gathering, leveling | 3/8 inch round rod | Moderate | Moderate |
| Dibble (planting stick) | Making planting holes | 1/2 inch round rod | Very low | Moderate |
Chapter 2: Hoe Forging
Garden hoe forging: 1) Start with 1/4 x 3 inch flat bar, 12 inches long. 2) Heat one end to bright orange. 3) Forge blade: flatten and spread to 4-5 inches wide. 4) Bend blade at 70-80 degree angle from handle socket. 5) Forge socket: wrap opposite end around mandrel to form tube. 6) Socket receives wooden handle. 7) Sharpen blade edge with file. 8) Harden edge (optional): heat to cherry red, quench in oil. 9) Temper to blue/purple (spring temper, holds edge but does not chip). 10) Handle: straight hardwood, 4-5 feet long.
| Hoe Type | Blade Shape | Blade Width | Best For |
|---|---|---|---|
| Garden hoe (standard) | Rectangular | 4-6 inches | General weeding, cultivating |
| Stirrup hoe (scuffle) | Loop/stirrup | 5-7 inches | Slicing weeds below surface |
| Warren hoe (pointed) | Triangular | 4-5 inches | Making furrows, hilling |
| Collinear hoe | Thin, narrow | 3-4 inches | Precision weeding |
| Grub hoe (mattock) | Heavy, narrow | 3-4 inches | Breaking hard ground, roots |
Chapter 3: Plowshare Forging
Plowshare construction: 1) Start with heavy plate (3/8-1/2 inch thick, 8-12 inches wide). 2) Heat entire piece to bright orange (requires large forge or fire). 3) Shape point: draw out leading edge to sharp point. 4) Shape wing: curve plate to turn soil (moldboard shape). 5) Forge landside: flat bottom that rides on furrow floor. 6) Forge share edge: thin, sharp cutting edge at bottom. 7) Harden share edge: heat to cherry red, quench in water. 8) Temper to blue (tough but hard). 9) Attach to plow beam with bolts. 10) Plowshare wears with use and must be re-sharpened or replaced.
| Plow Component | Function | Material | Forging Difficulty |
|---|---|---|---|
| Share (point) | Cuts soil horizontally | High-carbon steel | High |
| Moldboard | Turns and inverts soil | Mild steel or iron | Moderate |
| Landside | Stabilizes plow in furrow | Mild steel | Low |
| Coulter | Cuts sod vertically (ahead of share) | High-carbon steel | Moderate |
| Clevis | Attaches plow to draft animal | Mild steel | Low |
Chapter 4: Sickle and Scythe Forging
Sickle forging: 1) Start with 1/4 x 1.5 inch flat bar, 18-24 inches long. 2) Heat and forge blade: taper to thin edge (1/16 inch at cutting edge). 3) Curve blade into crescent shape (gradual curve, not sharp bend). 4) Forge tang: narrow extension for handle attachment. 5) Harden blade: heat to cherry red, quench in oil. 6) Temper to straw/bronze color (hard but not brittle). 7) Sharpen with whetstone (serrated edge for grain, smooth for grass). 8) Handle: short wooden handle, 6-8 inches.
Scythe blade forging: 1) Start with 1/4 x 2 inch flat bar, 30-40 inches long. 2) Draw out blade: taper from spine (3/16 inch) to edge (1/32 inch). 3) Curve blade gently (slight S-curve). 4) Forge tang with offset (blade sits at angle to snath). 5) Harden edge: selective hardening (edge only). 6) Temper to straw color. 7) Peen edge on peening anvil (thins and work-hardens). 8) Sharpen with whetstone. 9) A well-forged scythe blade is a masterwork of the smith's art.
Chapter 5: Hay Fork and Rake
Hay fork (pitchfork) forging: 1) Start with 3/8 inch round rod, 36 inches long. 2) Heat center section. 3) Split rod into 3-4 tines using hot chisel. 4) Spread tines evenly. 5) Draw out each tine to 12-15 inches long. 6) Curve tines slightly (matching curve). 7) Forge socket at base for handle. 8) Handle: straight hardwood, 5-6 feet long. 9) A three-tine fork is standard for hay; four-tine for manure.
Reference Card
- The hoe is the most important farm tool (a sharp hoe controls weeds, cultivates soil, and makes furrows; it is used more than any other tool in the garden). 2. Angle the hoe blade correctly (the blade should meet the ground at 70-80 degrees when the handle is held comfortably; wrong angle means poor cutting and back strain). 3. A sharp plowshare cuts clean (a dull plowshare tears soil and requires more draft power; sharpen or replace the share regularly). 4. Selective hardening saves the tool (harden only the cutting edge; a fully hardened tool is brittle and breaks; a soft body with a hard edge is the ideal combination). 5. The sickle is curved for a reason (the crescent shape pulls grain stalks toward the cutting edge during the sweep; a straight blade pushes stalks away). 6. Peen the scythe blade (hammering the edge thin on a peening anvil work-hardens the steel and creates an extremely thin, sharp edge that cuts grass effortlessly). 7. Split the fork from one bar (forging a pitchfork by splitting a single rod ensures the tines are integral with the socket; welded tines break at the joint). 8. Agricultural tools are the smith's highest calling (every farm tool the smith makes multiplies the community's food production; a good hoe or plow feeds families).