Complete Blacksmithing: Tongs and Tooling: From Bar to Grip
A blacksmith is only as good as their tooling. This campaign covers tong making, hardy tools, swage blocks, punches, and jig construction.
Chapter 1: Tong Types
Tong Type
Jaw Shape
Best For
Stock Size
Difficulty
Flat jaw (bolt tongs)
Flat, parallel
Flat bar, plate
3/8-1 inch flat
Moderate
V-bit (wolf jaw)
V-shaped notch
Round and square stock
1/4-3/4 inch round/square
Moderate
Box jaw
Rectangular opening
Square stock
Specific size
Moderate-high
Scrolling tongs
Flat, wide jaw
Holding scrolls, curves
Flat bar
Moderate
Pick-up tongs
Narrow, pointed
Small pieces
Any small stock
Low-moderate
Rivet tongs
Cupped jaw
Holding rivet heads
Rivet size
Moderate
Chapter 2: Tong Forging
Flat jaw tong forging: 1) Start with 3/4-inch round or square stock, 18-20 inches long. 2) Heat one end to bright orange. 3) Flatten the first 2 inches (this becomes the jaw). 4) Offset: at 2-inch mark, create a 90-degree step (the boss). 5) The boss is the pivot point where the rivet goes. 6) Draw out the reins (handles) from behind the boss. 7) Reins should be 12-16 inches long, tapered. 8) Punch or drill rivet hole through boss. 9) Forge second tong half (mirror image of first). 10) Assemble with rivet through both bosses. 11) Adjust jaw alignment (jaws must meet evenly). 12) Heat and adjust until jaws grip stock firmly.
Forging Step
Temperature
Tool
Critical Point
Flatten jaw
Bright orange
Hammer, anvil face
Even thickness
Create boss (offset)
Bright orange
Hammer, anvil edge
Clean 90-degree step
Draw reins
Orange-yellow
Hammer, anvil
Even taper, straight
Punch rivet hole
Cherry red
Punch, bolster plate
Centered in boss
Assemble and adjust
Cherry red
Rivet, hammer
Jaws align perfectly
Chapter 3: Hardy Tools
Tool
Function
Fits In
Difficulty
Hot cut hardy
Cut hot metal
Hardy hole (anvil)
Low
Cold cut hardy
Cut cold metal
Hardy hole
Low
Fuller (bottom)
Create grooves, spread metal
Hardy hole
Low
Swage (bottom)
Shape round stock
Hardy hole
Moderate
Bick iron
Small horn for tight curves
Hardy hole
Moderate
Monkey tool
Flatten around round stock
Hardy hole
Moderate
Hardy tool construction: 1) Start with 1-inch square stock (or match your hardy hole). 2) Forge shank to fit hardy hole snugly. 3) Forge working end to desired shape. 4) For hot cut: forge thin edge (like chisel), do not harden. 5) For cold cut: forge edge, harden and temper. 6) For fuller: forge rounded groove shape. 7) For swage: forge half-round channel (match stock size). 8) Hardy tools drop into the anvil's square hole. 9) Work is placed on top and struck with hammer.
Chapter 4: Punches and Drifts
Tool
Purpose
Shape
Material
Center punch
Mark drill points
Pointed
Tool steel (hardened)
Slot punch
Create rectangular holes
Rectangular
Tool steel
Round punch
Create round holes
Round
Tool steel
Drift
Enlarge and shape holes
Tapered (round, square, oval)
Tool steel
Bolster plate
Support work during punching
Flat plate with holes
Mild steel
Punch making: 1) Start with tool steel rod (W1, O1, or S7). 2) Forge working end to desired shape. 3) Leave striking end slightly crowned (prevents mushrooming). 4) Harden working end: heat to cherry red, quench in oil. 5) Temper: heat to straw/bronze color (375-425°F). 6) Do not harden striking end (it will chip and send shrapnel). 7) Dress striking end regularly (grind off any mushrooming).
Chapter 5: Jigs and Fixtures
Jig
Purpose
Construction
Difficulty
Bending fork
Bend scrolls and curves
Two prongs welded to hardy shank
Low
Twisting wrench
Twist bar stock
Slotted bar with handle
Low
Spring swage
Shape round stock (top and bottom)
Two matched halves with spring
Moderate
Scroll starter
Begin scroll curves
Tapered slot in plate
Low
Rivet header
Form rivet heads
Plate with countersunk hole
Low
Reference Card
Make tongs first (tongs are the first tool a blacksmith makes; without tongs, you cannot safely hold hot metal for any other forging operation). 2. The boss is the critical feature (the offset step between jaw and rein creates the pivot point; a clean, well-formed boss makes tongs that work smoothly). 3. Jaws must align perfectly (tongs that do not grip evenly are dangerous; heat and adjust until the jaws meet flat across their entire surface). 4. Hardy tools multiply the anvil (every hardy tool adds a new capability to the anvil; a basic set of hot cut, fuller, and swage transforms what you can make). 5. Punches must be hard, strikers must be soft (harden and temper the working end of punches; leave the striking end soft so it does not chip and send shrapnel). 6. A bolster plate supports punching (a thick plate with holes underneath the work supports the metal and gives the punch somewhere to go). 7. Tool steel for cutting tools (W1, O1, or S7 tool steel holds an edge; mild steel is fine for tongs and hardy tools that do not need to cut). 8. Every smith makes their own tools (the mark of a blacksmith is the ability to make the tools needed for the next project; tooling is never finished).
