Sovereignty Module: Build in Stone

Cover of Build in Stone
Build in Stone
Complete Masonry: From Quarry to Cathedral
⟁ cover painted for this edition — the source module carried no illustrations

Complete Masonry: From Quarry to Cathedral

Stone outlasts all other building materials. This campaign covers stone selection, cutting, mortar, laying, and construction of permanent structures.

Chapter 1: Stone Types and Properties

StoneHardnessWorkabilityWeightWeather ResistanceBest Uses
GraniteVery hardDifficult (split along grain)Very heavyExcellentFoundations, monuments, paving
LimestoneMediumGood (saws and carves)HeavyGood (some types dissolve slowly)Walls, arches, carving, lime production
SandstoneSoft-mediumExcellent (easy to shape)Medium-heavyVariable (some crumble)Walls, carving, paving
SlateMediumExcellent (splits in sheets)MediumExcellentRoofing, flooring, writing surfaces
MarbleMediumGood (carves beautifully)HeavyModerate (acid rain dissolves)Sculpture, flooring, decoration
BasaltVery hardDifficultVery heavyExcellentFoundations, paving, grinding stones
Fieldstone (mixed)VariableUse as foundVariableVariableWalls, foundations (dry-stack)
River stone (rounded)VariableUse as foundVariableGoodFoundations, drainage, decorative
Flint/chertVery hardKnaps (fractures conchoidally)MediumExcellentTools, fire starting, aggregate

Chapter 2: Stone Working Tools

ToolFunctionMaterialPriorityNotes
Point chiselRough shaping, removing bulkHardened steelCriticalFirst tool used on raw stone
Flat chiselSmoothing, creating flat surfacesHardened steelCriticalFollow point chisel work
Tooth chisel (claw)Intermediate texturingHardened steelImportantBetween point and flat work
Hand hammer (2-4 lb)Drive chiselsSteel head, wood handleCriticalMatch weight to chisel size
Sledgehammer (8-12 lb)Split large stonesSteel head, long handleImportantUse with wedges and shims
Wedges and shims (feathers)Split stone along lineSteel wedges, thin steel shimsImportantDrill holes, insert, hammer evenly
Bush hammerTexture flat surfacesSteel (multiple points)UsefulCreates non-slip texture
TrowelApply and shape mortarSteel blade, wood handleCriticalPointed for joints, flat for spreading
Level (spirit or water)Ensure horizontal/verticalWood + vial, or water tubeCriticalCheck every course
String lineMaintain straight coursesString + pinsCriticalSet for each course
SquareCheck 90° cornersSteel or woodCriticalCheck frequently

Chapter 3: Mortar Types

TypeIngredientsRatioStrengthFlexibilityBest For
Lime mortar (non-hydraulic)Lime putty + sand1:3 (lime:sand)Low-moderateHigh (self-healing)Historic buildings, soft stone
Hydraulic lime mortarHydraulic lime + sand1:3ModerateModerateGeneral construction, damp conditions
Portland cement mortarCement + lime + sand1:1:6HighLow (rigid)Modern construction, hard stone
Mud mortarClay + sand + strawVariable (test locally)LowHighTemporary, earthen buildings
Lime-pozzolanLime + volcanic ash/brick dust + sand1:1:3High (sets underwater)ModerateUnderwater, foundations, Roman concrete

Lime production: Burn limestone (CaCO3) at 900°C+ for hours → quickite (CaO). Slake quicklime with water → lime putty Ca(OH)2. Age putty 3+ months (improves workability). Mix with sand for mortar. Sets by absorbing CO2 from air (carbonation). Slow set = self-healing joints. Historic buildings lasted centuries with lime mortar.

Chapter 4: Wall Construction

TypeThicknessMortarSkill LevelStrengthBest For
Dry stone (no mortar)18-36"NoneHigh (stone selection)Good (gravity + friction)Field walls, retaining walls
Rubble (random)18-24"Lime or cementModerateGoodFoundations, utilitarian walls
Coursed rubble18-24"Lime or cementModerate-highVery goodGeneral construction
Ashlar (cut stone)12-18"Lime or cementVery highExcellentFine buildings, facades
Cavity wall (two skins)12-18" totalLime or cementHighExcellent (insulated)Permanent buildings

Dry stone wall principles: Two faces (outer skins) with rubble fill between. Through-stones (tie stones) every 3-4 feet span both faces. Batter (lean inward) 1:6 ratio. Hearting (fill) tightly packed. Cap stones on top. No two joints should align vertically. Largest stones at base. Each stone should rest on two below (bridging joints).

Chapter 5: Arches and Vaults

TypeSpanDifficultyCentering RequiredStrengthBest For
Flat arch (jack arch)2-4 ftModerateYes (temporary support)Low-moderateWindows, small openings
Semicircular arch2-20+ ftModerate-highYesVery highDoors, windows, bridges
Pointed arch (Gothic)2-40+ ftHighYesExcellent (less thrust)Large spans, cathedrals
Barrel vaultAny lengthHighYes (full length)Very highTunnels, cellars, roofs
Groin vaultSquare baysVery highYesVery highLarge rooms, intersections
Corbelled arch2-6 ftModerateNo (self-supporting during build)ModerateSmall openings, primitive

Arch construction: Build temporary wooden centering (form) in exact shape of desired arch. Lay voussoirs (wedge-shaped stones) from both sides simultaneously toward center. Keystone (center top stone) locks arch. Remove centering only after mortar has fully set (weeks for lime mortar). Arch transfers weight to sides (abutments must resist lateral thrust).

Chapter 6: Foundations

TypeDepthWidthMaterialLoad CapacityBest For
Strip foundationBelow frost line2× wall thicknessStone, concreteModerate-highStandard walls
Pad foundationBelow frost line3-4× column widthStone, concreteHigh (point loads)Columns, posts
Raft foundation12-18"Full building footprintConcrete, stoneHigh (spreads load)Weak soil, heavy buildings
Rubble trenchBelow frost line18-24"Gravel-filled trenchModerateLight buildings, good drainage
Pier foundationBelow frost line12-18" diameterStone, concrete, woodModerateRaised buildings, slopes

Foundation rules: Always below frost line (prevents heaving). Always on undisturbed soil (never fill). Always wider than wall above (spreads load). Always level (check with water level). Drainage away from foundation (slope grade). Damp-proof course between foundation and wall (slate, tar, or plastic).

Reference Card

  1. Dry stone: no mortar needed. Two faces + rubble fill + through-stones. Batter 1:6. Each stone on two below. Lasts centuries.
  2. Lime mortar: 1 part lime putty to 3 parts sharp sand. Self-healing (carbonation). Flexible. Historic buildings lasted 500+ years.
  3. Foundation: below frost line, on undisturbed soil, wider than wall, level, with drainage away from building.
  4. Arch: temporary centering (wooden form), lay from both sides to keystone. Remove centering only after mortar sets fully.
  5. Through-stones: every 3-4 feet in wall, spanning full thickness. These tie the two faces together. Essential for stability.
  6. Batter: walls should lean slightly inward (1:6 ratio). Gravity keeps wall stable. Vertical walls are less stable.
  7. Lime production: burn limestone at 900°C+ → quicklime. Add water → lime putty. Age 3+ months. Mix with sand for mortar.
  8. Stone selection: flat beds, no cracks, ring when struck (dull thud = internal crack). Largest at base, smallest at top.
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