Sovereignty Module: Clothe the People
Complete Textiles and Clothing: From Fiber to Garment
Clothing protects from elements, prevents disease, and enables work in all conditions. This campaign covers fiber processing, spinning, weaving, dyeing, and garment construction.
Chapter 1: Fiber Sources
| Fiber | Source | Climate | Processing | Warmth | Durability | Water Resistance |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Wool | Sheep (shearing) | Temperate-cold | Wash, card, spin | Excellent (warm when wet) | Good | Moderate (lanolin) |
| Flax (linen) | Flax plant (stems) | Temperate | Ret, break, hackle, spin | Moderate (cool in heat) | Excellent | Low (dries fast) |
| Cotton | Cotton plant (bolls) | Warm/tropical | Gin, card, spin | Low-moderate | Moderate | Low (absorbs, slow dry) |
| Hemp | Hemp plant (stems) | Temperate | Ret, break, hackle, spin | Moderate | Excellent | Moderate |
| Nettle | Stinging nettle (stems) | Temperate | Ret, break, hackle, spin | Moderate | Good | Low |
| Silk | Silkworm cocoons | Warm | Reel, twist | Moderate (insulates) | Moderate | Low |
| Fur/hide | Animals (pelts) | Any | Tan, cut, sew | Excellent | Good-excellent | Good (with treatment) |
| Bark cloth | Inner bark (mulberry, elm) | Tropical-temperate | Pound, soak, pound | Low | Low-moderate | Low |
| Cattail/milkweed | Seed fluff | Temperate-warm | Collect, stuff (not spun) | Good (insulation fill) | Low | Moderate |
Chapter 2: Spinning
| Method | Speed | Quality | Portability | Skill Level | Best For |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Drop spindle (bottom whorl) | Slow | High (with practice) | Excellent (pocket-sized) | Beginner-moderate | Learning, fine yarn, portability |
| Drop spindle (top whorl) | Slow | High | Excellent | Beginner-moderate | Worsted-style spinning |
| Supported spindle | Very slow | Very high (fine) | Good | Moderate | Very fine yarn (cotton, silk) |
| Spinning wheel (flyer) | Fast | High | Low (stationary) | Moderate | Production spinning |
| Great wheel (walking) | Moderate | Good | Low (large) | Moderate | Thick yarn, wool |
| Charkha (Indian wheel) | Moderate | High | Moderate (portable) | Moderate | Cotton (fine fiber) |
| Thigh spinning (ancient) | Very slow | Moderate | Excellent (no tools) | Low | Emergency, primitive |
Spinning basics: 1) Prepare fiber (card wool into rolags, or hackle flax into stricks). 2) Attach leader yarn to spindle. 3) Draft fiber (pull thin amount from mass). 4) Add twist (spin spindle clockwise for Z-twist). 5) Wind on. 6) Repeat. Key: draft thin, twist enough to hold but not over-twist. Practice 10 hours = usable yarn. 50 hours = consistent yarn.
Chapter 3: Weaving
| Loom Type | Size | Complexity | Speed | Fabric Width | Best For |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Backstrap loom | Portable | Low-moderate | Slow | 12-24 inches | Narrow bands, belts, straps |
| Frame loom | Small-medium | Low | Slow | 12-36 inches | Tapestry, small pieces, learning |
| Rigid heddle loom | Medium | Low-moderate | Moderate | 15-32 inches | Plain weave, simple patterns |
| Floor loom (2 shaft) | Large | Moderate | Fast | 24-60 inches | Plain weave production |
| Floor loom (4 shaft) | Large | Moderate-high | Fast | 24-60 inches | Twill, patterns, production |
| Warp-weighted loom | Large (vertical) | Moderate | Moderate | 24-72 inches | Historical, heavy fabrics |
| Inkle loom | Small | Low | Moderate | 1-4 inches | Bands, straps, trim |
Weaving fundamentals: Warp = lengthwise threads (under tension on loom). Weft = crosswise threads (passed through with shuttle). Shed = opening between warp threads. Heddle = device that lifts/lowers warp threads to create shed. Beat = pushing weft tight against previous row. Plain weave: over 1, under 1. Twill: over 2, under 1 (creates diagonal). Satin: over 4, under 1 (creates smooth surface).
Chapter 4: Dyeing
| Dye Source | Color | Mordant | Lightfastness | Washfastness | Availability |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Onion skins | Gold-orange | Alum | Good | Good | Kitchen waste (free) |
| Walnut hulls | Brown-black | None needed | Excellent | Excellent | Autumn harvest |
| Indigo (woad) | Blue | Fermentation vat | Excellent | Excellent | Grow or trade |
| Madder root | Red-orange | Alum | Good | Good | Grow (3 year root) |
| Elderberry | Purple-blue | Alum + salt | Poor-moderate | Poor | Autumn harvest |
| Turmeric | Bright yellow | Alum | Poor (fades in sun) | Moderate | Grow or trade |
| Oak bark/galls | Tan-brown-black | Iron | Excellent | Excellent | Forest harvest |
| Cochineal | Crimson-red | Alum | Excellent | Excellent | Cactus insect (trade) |
| Weld (dyer's rocket) | Bright yellow | Alum | Excellent | Good | Grow (annual) |
| Logwood | Purple-black | Alum + iron | Good | Good | Trade (tropical tree) |
Mordanting: Most natural dyes need a mordant (metal salt) to bond permanently to fiber. Alum (potassium aluminum sulfate): safest, brightest colors. Use 15-20% weight of fiber. Dissolve in hot water, simmer fiber 1 hour, let cool overnight. Then dye. Iron (ferrous sulfate): darkens/saddens colors. Use 2-4% weight of fiber. Copper: shifts colors green. Use 2-4%. Tin: brightens colors. Use 1-2% (toxic, use carefully).
Chapter 5: Garment Construction
| Garment | Fabric Needed | Skill Level | Time | Tools | Climate |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Tunic (simple) | 2-3 yards | Beginner | 2-4 hours | Needle, thread, scissors | All (base layer) |
| Trousers (drawstring) | 2-3 yards | Beginner-moderate | 3-5 hours | Needle, thread, scissors | All |
| Cloak (rectangular) | 3-4 yards | Beginner | 1-2 hours | Needle, thread, pin/brooch | Cold/wet (outer layer) |
| Shirt (fitted) | 3-4 yards | Moderate | 6-10 hours | Needle, thread, scissors | All |
| Coat (lined) | 5-6 yards + lining | Advanced | 15-25 hours | Needle, thread, scissors, iron | Cold (outer layer) |
| Moccasins | 2-3 sq ft leather | Moderate | 3-5 hours | Awl, needle, sinew/thread | All (footwear) |
| Mittens | 1 sq ft leather or knit | Beginner-moderate | 2-4 hours | Needle, thread | Cold |
| Hat (felt) | 4-6 oz wool | Moderate | 4-8 hours | Hot water, soap, form | Cold |
Simple tunic construction: 1) Measure: shoulder to knee (length) × 2. Shoulder width + 6 inches (width). 2) Cut rectangle. 3) Fold in half (shoulder fold). 4) Cut neck hole (small, can enlarge). 5) Sew sides from armpit down, leaving arm holes. 6) Hem bottom, sleeves, neck. Optional: add belt, gussets under arms for mobility. This pattern has clothed humanity for 5,000+ years.
Chapter 6: Knitting and Repair
| Technique | Tools | Speed | Stretch | Best For | Difficulty |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Knitting (needles) | 2 needles | Moderate | High | Socks, hats, sweaters | Moderate |
| Crochet | 1 hook | Moderate-fast | Moderate | Blankets, bags, trim | Low-moderate |
| Nalbinding | 1 needle + short yarn | Slow | Low-moderate | Socks, mittens (historical) | Moderate |
| Darning | Needle + yarn | Slow | Matches original | Hole repair in knits/wovens | Low |
| Patching | Needle + fabric | Slow | Matches original | Large hole repair in wovens | Low |
| Felting | Hands + hot water + soap | Moderate | None (dense) | Hats, boots, insulation | Low |
Reference Card
- Wool: best all-around fiber for cold climates. Warm when wet (unique). Naturally fire-resistant. Felts for waterproofing. One sheep = 5-10 lbs/year = enough for 1-2 garments.
- Flax/linen: best for hot climates. Cool, strong, dries fast. Grows in temperate climates. Takes 6 months from seed to fiber. Labor-intensive processing but worth it.
- Layering system: base layer (wicks moisture) + insulating layer (traps air) + outer layer (blocks wind/rain). This system works in any climate with any fiber.
- Spinning: 1 lb of wool = ~1,000 yards of medium yarn. Takes 8-12 hours to spin. 1 sweater = ~1,500 yards = 15-20 hours spinning. Weaving is faster than knitting for fabric.
- Natural dyes: mordant FIRST, then dye. Alum is safest mordant. Walnut and indigo need no mordant. Always test on sample first. Wet fiber takes dye better.
- Repair always: mend before replacing. A patched garment is better than no garment. Darn holes when small. Patch when large. Reinforce stress points before they fail.
- Felt: fastest textile (no spinning or weaving). Wet wool + hot water + soap + agitation = felt in 1-2 hours. Makes hats, boots, blankets, insulation. Waterproof when dense.
- Leather: not textile but essential. Tanned hide = clothing, shoes, bags, armor. One deer hide = 1 pair moccasins + 1 bag. Rawhide (untanned) for lacing, drums, containers.