Sovereignty Module: Trap the Sun

Trap the Sun
Trap the Sun
Complete Cold Frame and Season Extension: From Frost to Harvest
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Complete Cold Frame and Season Extension: From Frost to Harvest

Cold frames and greenhouses extend the growing season by weeks or months. This campaign covers cold frame construction, greenhouse design, heat management, and year-round growing.

Chapter 1: Season Extension Methods

MethodTemperature GainCostDifficultySeason Extension
Cold frame10-20°FVery lowVery low4-8 weeks
Hot bed (manure-heated)20-40°FLowLow6-12 weeks
Low tunnel (row cover)5-15°FVery lowVery low2-6 weeks
High tunnel (hoop house)15-30°FModerateModerate8-16 weeks
Greenhouse (heated)Full controlHighHighYear-round
Wall o' Water10-20°FLowVery low4-6 weeks (per plant)

Chapter 2: Cold Frame Construction

ComponentMaterialPurposeSpecification
Frame (back)Lumber, straw bale, or brickTall side (north)18-24 inches high
Frame (front)Lumber, straw bale, or brickShort side (south)8-12 inches high
Lid (sash)Old window, polycarbonate, or plasticAdmit light, trap heatHinged at back
InsulationStraw bales, foam, or earthReduce heat lossAround sides
HingeMetal hinge or leather strapAllow openingAt back edge
Prop stickWood stickHold lid open for ventingNotched for heights

Cold frame construction: 1) Orient frame facing south (maximum sun exposure). 2) Back wall (north): 18-24 inches high. 3) Front wall (south): 8-12 inches high. 4) Slope from back to front (sheds rain, angles toward sun). 5) Size: match available window sash (common: 3x6 feet). 6) Build frame from 2-inch lumber, straw bales, or concrete block. 7) Hinge sash at back (opens toward north). 8) Seal joints to reduce drafts. 9) Insulate sides with straw bales or banked earth. 10) Prop stick: hold lid open at various heights for ventilation.

Chapter 3: Hot Bed

Hot bed construction: 1) Dig pit 18-24 inches deep inside cold frame footprint. 2) Fill with fresh horse manure mixed with straw (2:1 manure to straw). 3) Pack manure firmly. 4) Manure generates heat as it decomposes (120-160°F initially). 5) Cover manure with 4-6 inches of soil or compost. 6) Wait 3-5 days for temperature to moderate (soil should be 70-80°F). 7) Plant seeds or transplants in soil layer. 8) Hot bed provides bottom heat for 6-8 weeks. 9) After heat is spent, decomposed manure becomes excellent compost. 10) Refresh manure annually for continued heating.

PhaseTemperatureDurationAction
Initial heating120-160°F3-5 daysDo not plant (too hot)
Active heating70-90°F4-6 weeksIdeal growing conditions
Declining heat60-75°F2-4 weeksStill useful, supplement if needed
SpentAmbientAfter 8-12 weeksRemove and compost

Chapter 4: Hoop House (High Tunnel)

ComponentMaterialPurposeSpecification
HoopsPVC pipe, EMT conduit, or bent rebarStructural archSpaced 4 feet apart
Base boardsTreated lumberAnchor hoops2x6 or 2x8
Covering6-mil greenhouse polyAdmit light, trap heatUV-stabilized
End wallsPlywood, poly, or combinationClose endsInclude door
VentilationRoll-up sides or end ventsTemperature controlEssential
Ground anchorsRebar driven into groundSecure base24 inches deep

Hoop house construction: 1) Level site and lay base boards (2x6, 12-20 feet long). 2) Secure base boards with rebar stakes. 3) Bend hoops (PVC or conduit) and insert into ground or base board brackets. 4) Space hoops 4 feet apart. 5) Install ridge pole (connects tops of all hoops). 6) Install purlins (horizontal supports along sides). 7) Pull poly over frame and secure with wiggle wire in channel or batten strips. 8) Build end walls with door. 9) Install roll-up sides for ventilation. 10) Typical size: 12-14 feet wide, 20-96 feet long.

Chapter 5: Temperature Management

ProblemCauseSolution
Overheating (above 90°F)Sealed on sunny dayOpen vents, prop lid, roll up sides
Freezing (below 32°F)Cold night, no thermal massAdd water jugs (thermal mass), insulate
CondensationTemperature differentialImprove ventilation, angle sash for drip
Wind damageUnsecured coveringSecure all edges, use wiggle wire

Reference Card

  1. A cold frame is the simplest season extender (an old window over a wooden frame; it adds 4-8 weeks to the growing season at almost no cost). 2. Face south, slope toward the sun (the sash must face south and slope from back to front to maximize solar gain and shed rain). 3. Ventilation prevents cooking (on sunny days, even in winter, a sealed cold frame can exceed 100°F; always vent when temperature rises above 75°F). 4. Horse manure is a heater (fresh horse manure generates 120-160°F as it decomposes; a hot bed provides bottom heat for 6-8 weeks of growing). 5. Water jugs store heat (black-painted water jugs inside the cold frame absorb heat during the day and release it at night, moderating temperature swings). 6. A hoop house is a poor man's greenhouse (PVC hoops and greenhouse poly create a protected growing space at a fraction of the cost of a glass greenhouse). 7. Roll-up sides are essential (without ventilation, a hoop house overheats on any sunny day; roll-up sides provide instant, adjustable airflow). 8. Season extension means food security (growing food 2-4 months longer each year dramatically increases self-sufficiency; cold frames and hoop houses make this possible anywhere).
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