Sovereignty Module: Reach the Deep

Cover of Reach the Deep
Reach the Deep
Complete Well Drilling, Groundwater Access, and Hand Pump Installation Guide
⟁ cover painted for this edition — the source module carried no illustrations

Complete Well Drilling, Groundwater Access, and Hand Pump Installation Guide

Clean water from underground is the most reliable water source in any climate. Wells provide water year-round regardless of surface conditions. This campaign covers finding water, digging and drilling wells, and installing hand pumps.

Chapter 1: Groundwater Indicators

IndicatorReliabilityMethod
Vegetation (willows, cattails, green in dry season)HighObserve where plants stay green
Topography (valley bottoms, base of slopes)HighWater flows downhill underground too
Existing springs or seepsVery highSpring = water table intersecting surface
Neighboring wells (ask depth and yield)Very highWater table is relatively consistent locally
Soil type (sand/gravel = good aquifer)HighPermeable soils hold and transmit water
Rock outcrops (limestone = possible, granite = poor)ModerateLimestone has fractures and caves
Ant hills (some species indicate shallow water)Low-moderateTraditional indicator
Morning fog/dew concentrationLow-moderateMoisture rises from shallow water table

Chapter 2: Well Types

TypeDepthDiameterMethodYieldLifespan
Dug well (hand-dug)10-50 feet3-6 feetShovel, pick, bucketModerate-high20-50+ years
Driven well (sand point)10-30 feet1.25-2 inchesHammer pipe into groundLow-moderate10-25 years
Bored well (hand auger)10-100 feet4-8 inchesEarth auger, extensionsModerate20-40 years
Drilled well (rotary)50-500+ feet4-8 inchesDrill rig (motorized)High30-50+ years
Spring box (captured spring)SurfaceN/AExcavate, box, pipeVariableIndefinite

Chapter 3: Hand-Dug Well Construction

StepActionSafety
1Select site (uphill from latrines, 100+ feet from contamination)Critical: never downhill from sewage
2Dig shaft 4-5 feet diameter, line as you goShore walls immediately (cave-in kills)
3Install concrete rings or stone/brick liningPrevents collapse, keeps out surface water
4Continue digging below water table (3-6 feet into saturated zone)Work in water, bail as you dig
5Install gravel filter at bottom (12-18 inches of clean gravel)Prevents sand from entering well
6Seal upper 10 feet of lining (cement/clay)Prevents surface contamination
7Build concrete apron around wellhead (3 feet radius, sloped away)Diverts surface water away
8Install cover (concrete slab with access hole)Prevents contamination, child safety
9Install pump (hand pump or windlass with bucket)Access method
10Disinfect well (chlorine treatment) before first useKills bacteria from construction

Chapter 4: Driven Well (Sand Point)

StepActionDetails
1Obtain well point (screened steel point, 1.25-2 inch)Commercial or fabricated (drill holes in pipe, wrap with screen)
2Attach first section of pipe (5-6 feet)Threaded coupling
3Drive into ground with post driver or sledgehammerUse drive cap to protect threads
4Add pipe sections as point descendsThread on additional lengths
5Test for water periodically (pour water in, see if it drains away)When water drains = you've reached water table
6Continue 3-5 feet past water tableEnsures adequate submergence
7Install pitcher pump or hand pump on topPrime pump, test yield
8Build concrete apron around pipePrevents surface contamination

Limitations: Only works in sand/gravel (cannot penetrate rock or heavy clay). Maximum practical depth: 25-30 feet (suction pump limit). Deeper requires a different pump type.

Chapter 5: Hand Pump Types

Pump TypeMax DepthFlow RateComplexityMaintenance
Pitcher pump (suction)25 feet3-5 GPMLowLow (replace leathers)
Deep well hand pump200+ feet1-3 GPMModerateModerate (rod/cylinder)
Rope pump100+ feet1-3 GPMLow (DIY)Low (replace rope/washers)
Windlass (bucket)Any depth1-2 GPMVery lowVery low
Solar pump200+ feet2-10 GPMHigh (electronics)Low (no moving parts in submersible)

Rope pump (DIY): Continuous loop of rope with rubber washers (discs) spaced 3 feet apart. Rope passes through PVC pipe (rising main). Turn wheel at top, washers push water up pipe. Simple, cheap, maintainable with local materials.

Chapter 6: Water Quality and Protection

Contamination SourceMinimum Distance from WellPrevention
Latrine/septic100 feet (30 meters) minimumAlways locate well UPHILL from sewage
Animal pen/feedlot100 feetSlope drainage away from well
Chemical storage200 feetBermed containment around chemicals
Surface water (stream, pond)50 feetSealed well casing prevents surface entry
Road/parking area50 feetPrevents fuel/oil contamination
Garbage/compost50 feetLeachate can reach groundwater

Disinfection: New wells or contaminated wells: add 1 quart household bleach per 100 gallons of water in well. Let sit 12-24 hours. Pump until chlorine smell gone. Test before drinking.

Reference Card

  1. Well site: uphill from all contamination, minimum 100 feet from latrines
  2. Dug well: line walls immediately (cave-in is the #1 killer in well construction)
  3. Seal upper 10 feet of well casing to prevent surface water contamination
  4. Driven well (sand point): only works in sand/gravel, max 25-30 feet deep
  5. Suction pumps cannot lift water more than 25 feet (atmospheric pressure limit)
  6. Rope pump: simple DIY design works to 100+ feet with local materials
  7. Concrete apron (3-foot radius, sloped away) prevents surface contamination
  8. Disinfect all new wells with chlorine before first use
TransmissionCOMPLETE — unaltered & unabridged
Words1,060 — every one of them
SHA-256 of source textb865654d1bb5545d4ee737fad60c572f49e52e92c2685086eab40795b77df099
Canonical textdownload campaign-wells-v2.md — byte-identical to what this page renders