Sovereignty Module: Card the Fleece
Complete Wool Processing, Spinning, Felting, and Textile Production Guide
Wool provides warmth, water resistance, and durability from a renewable source. This campaign covers shearing, washing, carding, spinning, dyeing, and felting.
Chapter 1: Sheep Breeds for Wool
| Breed | Fiber Type | Micron Count | Staple Length | Uses | Fleece Weight |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Merino | Ultra-fine | 11-24 microns | 2-4 inches | Next-to-skin garments, fine knitting | 8-18 lbs |
| Corriedale | Medium | 25-30 microns | 3-6 inches | All-purpose, felting, spinning | 10-17 lbs |
| Romney | Medium-long | 30-37 microns | 5-8 inches | Outerwear, rugs, felting | 8-12 lbs |
| Icelandic | Dual-coat (fine + long) | 20-30 (inner) / 50+ (outer) | 2-4 / 6-12 inches | Lopi yarn, outerwear | 4-7 lbs |
| Jacob | Medium | 28-36 microns | 3-6 inches | Hand spinning, natural colors | 3-6 lbs |
| Lincoln | Long/lustrous | 36-41 microns | 8-15 inches | Rugs, weaving, blending | 12-20 lbs |
| Shetland | Fine | 20-25 microns | 2-4 inches | Lace, fine knitting | 2-4 lbs |
Chapter 2: Fleece Processing Steps
| Step | Action | Time | Purpose | Tools |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Shearing (remove fleece) | 5-15 min/sheep | Harvest fiber | Hand shears or electric |
| 2 | Skirting (remove edges/dirty wool) | 10-20 min/fleece | Remove belly, leg, tag wool | Skirting table |
| 3 | Washing/scouring | 2-4 hours (multiple baths) | Remove lanolin, dirt, grease | Hot water (140F) + soap/detergent |
| 4 | Drying | 1-3 days | Remove moisture | Spread on screen, shade |
| 5 | Picking/opening | 15-30 min/lb | Open locks, remove debris | Hands or picker |
| 6 | Carding (align fibers) | 20-40 min/lb | Create rolag or batt for spinning | Hand cards or drum carder |
| 7 | Spinning (twist into yarn) | 1-4 hours/lb (varies by skill) | Create continuous yarn | Drop spindle or spinning wheel |
| 8 | Plying (twist 2+ singles together) | 30-60 min/lb | Balanced, stronger yarn | Spindle or wheel (reverse direction) |
| 9 | Setting twist (wash + dry) | 2-4 hours | Stabilize yarn structure | Warm water soak, hang to dry |
Chapter 3: Washing (Scouring) Procedure
| Bath | Temperature | Additive | Time | Action |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1st wash | 140F (hot but not boiling) | Dish soap or soda ash (1 tbsp/gallon) | 20-30 minutes | Soak (do NOT agitate — causes felting) |
| 2nd wash | 140F | Same soap amount | 20-30 minutes | Soak, gently press |
| 1st rinse | 140F (same temperature!) | None | 15-20 minutes | Soak, gently press |
| 2nd rinse | 140F | None (or 1 tbsp vinegar/gallon) | 15-20 minutes | Final rinse |
| Dry | Room temperature | - | 1-3 days | Spread on screen, good airflow |
Critical rule: NEVER change water temperature suddenly. Hot → cold = instant felting (fibers lock together permanently). Always match temperature between baths. Never agitate wool in hot water.
Chapter 4: Spinning Basics
| Concept | Description | Effect |
|---|---|---|
| Drafting | Pulling fibers apart to thin the roving | Controls yarn thickness |
| Twist | Rotation added by spindle/wheel | Holds fibers together (more twist = stronger/harder) |
| Worsted spinning | Fibers aligned parallel, smooth draft | Smooth, strong, dense yarn |
| Woolen spinning | Fibers random, from rolag | Lofty, warm, light yarn |
| Singles | One strand of spun yarn | Tends to twist on itself (unbalanced) |
| Plying | Twisting 2+ singles together (opposite direction) | Balanced yarn, stronger, rounder |
| Wraps per inch (WPI) | Yarn wrapped around ruler | Determines yarn weight/thickness |
| Yarn Weight | WPI | Needle Size | Uses |
|---|---|---|---|
| Lace | 30+ | 0-3 | Shawls, lace |
| Fingering/sock | 14-20 | 1-4 | Socks, lightweight garments |
| Sport/DK | 11-14 | 4-7 | Sweaters, hats, mittens |
| Worsted | 8-11 | 7-9 | Heavy sweaters, blankets |
| Bulky | 5-8 | 9-11 | Quick projects, outerwear |
Chapter 5: Felting
| Method | Process | Temperature | Time | Result |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Wet felting | Lay out wool + hot soapy water + friction | 140F+ water | 30-90 minutes | Flat felt fabric (hats, rugs, insulation) |
| Nuno felting | Wool felted through loose-weave fabric | 140F+ water | 30-60 minutes | Lightweight felt-fabric hybrid |
| Needle felting | Stab wool with barbed needle repeatedly | Room temperature | Variable | 3D shapes, sculptures, patches |
| Fulling (woven) | Agitate woven wool fabric in hot water | 140F+ water | 15-45 minutes | Denser, warmer, wind-proof fabric |
Wet felting procedure: 1. Lay out thin layers of wool (alternating direction: horizontal, then vertical). 2. Wet with hot soapy water. 3. Press gently (do not rub yet). 4. Once fibers begin to hold, rub/roll with increasing pressure. 5. Continue until fabric is dense and fibers cannot be pulled apart. 6. Rinse in cool water. 7. Shape and dry.
Chapter 6: Drop Spindle Construction
| Component | Material | Dimensions | Function |
|---|---|---|---|
| Shaft | Straight hardwood dowel | 10-12 inches long, 3/8 inch diameter | Rotation axis |
| Whorl (weight) | Wood disk, clay, or stone | 2-3 inches diameter, 1-2 oz | Provides momentum (flywheel) |
| Hook | Bent wire or carved notch | At top of shaft | Holds yarn during spinning |
Types: Top whorl (weight at top): faster spin, good for fine yarn. Bottom whorl (weight at bottom): more stable, good for beginners and thicker yarn. Both produce identical yarn — personal preference.
Spinning technique: 1. Attach leader yarn to spindle. 2. Draft fibers from roving (pull thin). 3. Give spindle a clockwise spin (drop it). 4. Let twist travel up into drafted fibers. 5. When spindle reaches floor, wind yarn onto shaft. 6. Repeat. Speed comes with practice (expect 1-2 oz/hour as beginner, 4-8 oz/hour experienced).
Reference Card
- Washing: 140F water, soap, SOAK (no agitation). Same temperature for all baths. Temperature change = felting.
- Carding: align fibers for spinning. Hand cards: brush fiber between two paddles. Creates rolags.
- Drop spindle: cheapest spinning tool. 10-12 inch dowel + 2-3 inch wood disk. Anyone can make one.
- Spinning direction: singles = clockwise (Z-twist). Plying = counter-clockwise (S-twist). Creates balanced yarn.
- Felting requires: heat + moisture + friction + alkalinity (soap). All four elements needed.
- Merino: finest wool (next-to-skin soft). Romney/Corriedale: best for beginners (easy to spin, versatile).
- One sheep produces 3-18 lbs raw fleece/year. After washing: 50-70% of raw weight remains (lanolin/dirt removed).
- Yarn storage: moth-proof (cedar, lavender, sealed containers). Moths destroy wool in weeks.