Sovereignty Module: Shape the Timber
Shape the Timber
Complete Woodcraft and Carpentry: From Tree to Structure
Complete Woodcraft and Carpentry: From Tree to Structure
Wood is the most versatile building material available without industrial infrastructure. This campaign covers tree selection, felling, seasoning, joinery, and construction.
Chapter 1: Wood Properties by Species
| Species | Hardness | Rot Resistance | Workability | Best Use |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Oak (white) | Very hard | Excellent | Moderate | Framing, furniture, barrels, wheels |
| Oak (red) | Hard | Poor | Moderate | Interior furniture, flooring |
| Pine (yellow) | Moderate | Moderate | Easy | Framing, general construction |
| Cedar (red) | Soft | Excellent | Very easy | Shingles, siding, fence posts, chests |
| Walnut | Hard | Good | Good | Furniture, gunstocks, tool handles |
| Hickory | Very hard | Poor | Difficult | Tool handles, bows, wheel spokes |
| Ash | Hard | Poor | Good | Tool handles, bows, furniture, oars |
| Maple | Very hard | Poor | Moderate | Furniture, flooring, cutting boards |
| Cherry | Moderate | Moderate | Good | Fine furniture, carving |
| Poplar/tulip | Soft | Poor | Very easy | Interior trim, carving, paint-grade |
| Elm | Hard | Moderate | Difficult (interlocked grain) | Wheel hubs, boat keels, chairs |
| Locust (black) | Very hard | Excellent | Difficult | Fence posts, ground contact, pegs |
Chapter 2: Timber Harvesting
| Task | Tool | Technique | Safety |
|---|---|---|---|
| Felling (small trees) | Axe | Notch on fall side (1/3 diameter), back cut opposite | Clear escape route 45° from fall direction |
| Felling (large trees) | Crosscut saw + axe | Notch with axe, back cut with saw, use wedges | Two-person operation, clear area 2× tree height |
| Limbing | Axe or hatchet | Cut from base toward top, stand on opposite side | Watch for spring-back from bent limbs |
| Bucking (cutting to length) | Crosscut saw | Support log, cut from top if sagging, bottom if bowed | Prevent saw binding (use wedges) |
| Splitting | Splitting maul + wedges | Find natural checks, start at end, work down | Wear eye protection, clear area |
| Hewing (squaring) | Broadaxe + chalk line | Score with axe, then hew to line with broadaxe | Secure log on dogs/supports |
Seasoning: Air dry 1 year per inch of thickness. Stack with stickers (spacers) between layers. Cover top, open sides for airflow. End-seal with wax or paint to prevent checking. Green wood: 60-80% moisture. Seasoned: 12-20% moisture. Kiln-dried: 6-8%.
Chapter 3: Essential Joints
| Joint | Strength | Difficulty | Tools Needed | Best Use |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Butt joint (nailed/screwed) | Low | Very easy | Hammer, nails | Rough construction, temporary |
| Lap joint | Moderate | Easy | Saw, chisel | Framing, quick work |
| Mortise and tenon | Very high | Moderate-high | Saw, chisel, mallet, drill | Furniture, timber framing, doors |
| Dovetail | Very high (pull-resistant) | High | Saw, chisel, marking gauge | Drawers, boxes, fine furniture |
| Tongue and groove | Moderate | Moderate | Plane (tongue/groove) or table saw | Flooring, paneling, tabletops |
| Scarf joint | High (lengthening) | Moderate | Saw, chisel, plane | Joining beams end-to-end |
| Dado/housing | Moderate | Easy | Saw, chisel, router | Shelving, bookcase construction |
| Pegged joint | Very high | Moderate | Drill, drawbore pin | Timber framing (no metal needed) |
Mortise and tenon: The king of joints. Mortise = rectangular hole. Tenon = tongue that fits the hole. Cut mortise first (harder to adjust). Size tenon to fit snugly. Pin with wooden peg (drawbore for extra tightness). Lasts centuries without glue or metal.
Chapter 4: Timber Frame Construction
| Component | Size (typical) | Wood | Function | Joint |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Sill | 8×8 or 6×8 | Oak, locust (rot-resistant) | Foundation contact | Mortise and tenon to posts |
| Posts | 6×6 or 8×8 | Oak, pine | Vertical support | Tenon into sill and plate |
| Plate (top beam) | 6×8 or 8×8 | Oak, pine | Top of wall, supports roof | Mortise and tenon to posts |
| Girts (horizontal) | 4×6 or 6×8 | Oak, pine | Connect posts, support floors | Mortise and tenon |
| Braces (diagonal) | 3×4 or 4×4 | Oak, hickory | Prevent racking | Mortise and tenon (45°) |
| Rafters | 4×6 or 3×5 | Pine, fir | Support roof | Birdsmouth at plate, peak joint |
| Ridge beam | 6×8 or 8×8 | Pine, fir, oak | Top of roof | Supports rafter peaks |
| Floor joists | 2×8 or 3×8 | Pine, oak | Support floor | Housed in girts |
| Purlins | 3×4 or 4×6 | Pine | Support roof boards between rafters | Housed in rafters |
Raising sequence: 1. Cut and prepare all timbers on ground. 2. Assemble bents (wall frames) flat. 3. Raise bents with pike poles and community help. 4. Connect bents with girts, plates, braces. 5. Install roof structure. 6. Add infill (boards, wattle-and-daub, straw bale).
Chapter 5: Essential Tools
| Tool | Function | Making/Obtaining | Maintenance |
|---|---|---|---|
| Axe (felling) | Fell trees, rough shaping | Forge head, fit hickory handle | Sharpen with file + stone, keep dry |
| Broadaxe | Hewing (squaring logs) | Forge (offset eye), handle | Sharpen one side only (flat side) |
| Crosscut saw (2-person) | Felling and bucking large trees | Difficult to make (buy/salvage) | Set teeth, sharpen with triangular file |
| Hand saw (rip + crosscut) | Cutting boards and timbers | Difficult to make (buy/salvage) | Set and sharpen teeth regularly |
| Chisel set (1/4" to 1-1/2") | Mortises, joints, carving | Forge from tool steel | Sharpen on stones (hollow grind) |
| Mallet | Drive chisels, assemble joints | Turn from hardwood (beech, maple) | Replace when worn |
| Hand plane (jack + smoothing) | Flatten and smooth surfaces | Complex (buy/salvage) | Sharpen iron, adjust mouth |
| Drawknife | Shaping, debarking, shaving | Forge from flat steel | Sharpen both bevels |
| Brace and bits | Drilling holes | Complex (buy/salvage bits) | Keep bits sharp, oil mechanism |
| Marking gauge | Layout lines parallel to edge | Make from hardwood + nail/blade | Keep cutter sharp |
| Square (try square) | Check 90° angles | Make from hardwood + metal blade | Verify accuracy periodically |
| Level | Check horizontal/vertical | Make from wood + water vial or plumb bob | Verify accuracy |
Chapter 6: Wood Finishing and Preservation
| Treatment | Purpose | Application | Durability | Toxicity |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Linseed oil (boiled) | Water resistance, beauty | Wipe on, let soak, wipe off. 3+ coats. | 1-3 years (reapply) | Low (food-safe when cured) |
| Beeswax + oil | Smooth finish, water resistance | Melt wax in oil, apply warm, buff | 6-12 months (reapply) | None (food-safe) |
| Tung oil | Hard waterproof finish | Thin coats, sand between, 5-7 coats | 3-5 years | Low |
| Shellac | Hard glossy finish | Dissolve flakes in alcohol, brush on | 2-5 years (interior only) | None (food-safe) |
| Pine tar | Exterior preservation | Heat and brush on (or mix with linseed oil) | 3-10 years | Low |
| Charring (shou sugi ban) | Rot/insect resistance | Torch surface until charred, brush, oil | 10-50+ years | None |
| Copper naphthenate | Ground contact preservation | Brush or soak | 10-20+ years | Moderate (not food contact) |
| Lime wash | UV protection, appearance | Brush on (multiple coats) | 1-3 years (reapply) | Very low |
Reference Card
- Season wood: 1 year per inch of thickness. Stack with stickers. Cover top, open sides. End-seal to prevent checking.
- Mortise and tenon: king of joints. Cut mortise first. Size tenon to fit snugly. Pin with drawbore peg. Lasts centuries.
- Oak for strength, cedar for rot resistance, pine for ease, hickory for tool handles, locust for ground contact.
- Timber frame: cut all joints on ground, assemble bents flat, raise with community, connect with girts and braces.
- Sharpen tools: sharp tools are safe tools. Dull tools slip. Maintain edge on all cutting tools daily.
- Green wood: easier to work but shrinks as it dries. Plan joints to accommodate shrinkage (or use green woodworking techniques).
- Preservation: char exterior wood (shou sugi ban) for decades of rot resistance. Oil interior wood for beauty and protection.
- Braces: every frame needs diagonal braces. Without them, the structure will rack (lean) and eventually collapse.
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